vendita cuccioli, vendita gatti norvegesi, cuccioli norvegesi,allevamento gatti norvegesi, gattini norvegesi, cuccioli gatti norvegesi I Gattini Disponibili Clicca sulla foto del gattino per accedere alla galleria Magia Portami Via -Femmina - CLICCA SULLA FOTO Scrivimi su Whatsapp "Ultimo Impero" -Maschio - CLICCA SULLA FOTO Scrivimi su Whatsapp "Duplè -Maschio - CLICCA SULLA FOTO Scrivimi su Whatsapp Actea - 4 mesi e mezzo Femmina- Blue Silver + White CLICCA SULLA FOTO Scrivimi su Whatsapp ADULTI IN ADOZIONE Scrivimi su Whatsapp E-MAIL "How They Live and Grow" - DO NOT LIVE IN CAGES or SMALL ROOMS: In addition to being "free" to roam anywhere in my house, my Norwegian cats have at their disposal various outdoor spaces completely fenced and protected, in which they can play, climb, enjoy the sun and the air open, which we know is important for their well-being. Their puppies live in the house with me, until their departure for their new homes, following precise techniques of socialization with other cats and humans . - DO NOT LIVE STRESS FROM OVER POPULATION: In these large spaces, mothers and fathers do not experience stressful situations caused by their state of fertile cat and the presence of "competitors", in this way they can transmit their balanced, sweet character to the puppy _cc781905- 5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_e loving. - I DO NOT USE INDUSTRIAL FEED -I raise the Norwegian cat and its kittens feeding it in a biologically appropriate way, as just like their wild cousins, cats evolved as hunters , jaws and digestive systems are suitable for diets rich in fresh meat. The puppies are used to various types of food so as not to have problems related to single-brand stores. My cats and kittens are followed by a veterinarian nutritionist. - I DO NOT ENTRUST THE PUPPIES BEFORE THE END OF 3 MONTHS -It is my goal to entrust extremely socialized puppies, affectionate and loving, who will not be afraid of relatives and friends who will come to visit you. SUPPORT FOR FAMILIES I like to help by advising families, to prepare for the arrival of the new member, to create an environment that will give him everything he will need, from environmental enrichment, to where to place food and bedding , corners to hide and rest, up to which scratching post to buy. I like to remain a point of reference for families for any future needs and occasionally receive some photos to see my puppies grow. In this regard, I manage two Facebook groups, one that concerns the family management of the cat, how to solve small problems of coexistence, Norwegian Love History and Health _cc781905-5cde- 3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_e one dedicated to its power supply. "Barf only Cats" I DO NOT TRUST THEIR HEALTH TO LUCK: -Our Cats are periodically tested for: HCM- Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy Fiv -Felv - Feline immunodeficiency and leukemia - GSD 4- Glycogenosis type 4 - PKD- Polycystic kidney syndrome Parasitological faeces generic and for Giardia_cc781- 3190-5 136bad5cf58d_ - I DON'T TRUST CATS WITHOUT PEDIGREE A pedigree costs only 13 euros, and is the only tool that gives you the guarantee that the cat is a true descendant of the Norwegian Forest Cat. It guarantees you that the cats have not been exploited to produce hundreds of out-of-control litters. It guarantees you that the mandatory health tests have been carried out. I DO NOT DELIVER CATS AT HOME Anyone who wants my puppy must be willing to get to know me and the whole feline family. A puppy is not a parcel, neither a "gift" nor a "surprise", but a living being that needs respect. The adoption takes place through a contract, with obligations and rights. I DO NOT RELY GATTI TO THIRD PARTIES I don't trust cats a Shops, you will NEVER find one of my kittens for sale in a "showcase" Kittens must grow up in close contact with their mother and siblings and a breeder who looks after them and socializes them from the first moment of life up to at least 3 months. I don't give puppies as gifts to third parties I don't know, or who don't want to come and meet me. DO NOT TRUST PUPPIES FREE TO RIDE Balconies and Windows and Gardens must be secured. Fresh air and sunlight are important for the health and well-being of humans and animals. But allowing a cat to roam freely or to expose itself in the window or on the balcony sill is very risky! So how to do it? I will help you with my experience, in securing your thing as you do when a baby arrives, with little tricks and tricks. "Quality Charter and Free Services for Adopters Pedigree that certifies the belonging to the breed and the commitment of the breeder. Puppy Parents Health Record (test reports carried out; viral, congenital, hereditary diseases.) _ Cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ Kitten Health Certificate. Coprology Test and Giardia Test. Complete vaccine prophylaxis (2 trivalent vaccines) or Antibody Titration and Homeopathic Vaccine. Weaning 100% natural food BARF with meats raised in the open, organic. (no industrial foods such as croquettes and canned goods) Barf Natural Food School. (with handouts, tutorials, videos, shopping list, how to read labels, list of prepackaged foods without cereals and supervision) Supply of fresh food - frozen. Guided path of preparation for the kitten's arrival: shopping list and dedicated discount codes, arrangement of the cat's objects in the house, various documentation including a list of poisonous plants, the approach with children, with another cat ... and much more. Guided tour to make the house, balconies, garden safe. Transfer Agreement, with guarantee and post-adoption assistance Fel D1 allergen tolerance test in a dedicated room.

Dal 2005 allevo con approccio olistico i grandi gatti Norvegesi delle Foreste dal carattere amorevole e gentile. Ideali per allergici, razza naturale sana e longeva " “Il gatto che ha camminato nella Mitologia Nordica… e oggi cammina accanto a te.” disir nornir disir nornir disir nornir disir nornir ALLEVAMENTO ETICO FAMIGLIARE DEL GATTO NORVEGESE DELLE FORESTE Affiliato AFeF (Associazioni Feline Federate) Riconosciuta dal Ministero MIPAAF, Pedigree Ufficiale Certificato a Fornovo di Taro - PARMA ( Emilia Romagna) "Allevo perchè è nel veder nascere felicità che trovo il senso più grande" Benvenuto nella pagina della mia Famiglia Felina! Welcome to my Feline Family page! This site was created for the dissemination of knowledge and preservation of the biological diversity of the "Norwegian Forest" Natural Breed. Cat breed, which until a few decades ago risked extinction and which today, without careful protection, risks losing its original appearance and genology. The births of our litters are aimed at " safeguarding the best subjects in terms of health, character and morphology ", to continue and pass on il" Norsk SkogKatt "(original Norwegian name) if you are interested do not hesitate to ask for information "LE FONDAMENTA" RISPETTO DEL BENESSERE ANIMALE ☑️ ZERO Consanguineità (Coefficiente COI < 5%) ☑️ NO maltrattamento genetico (Selezione di tratti estremi) ☑️ Rispetto dei Tempi di ripresa dalla gravidanza ☑️ Bassa Densità Abitativa ( no convivenze forzate) ☑️ Accesso Giardino Protetto ( Catrun Recinto Doppio) ☑️ Alimentazione Biologicamente Appropriata ( barf ) ☑️ Selezione per Carattere ☑️ Arricchimento Etologico ( comportamento Specie-Specifico) ☑️ NO coabitazione con specie antagonista ☑️ Socializzazione Intensiva Cuccioli ( 0-14 settimane) (Contatto umano quotidiano) vedi dettagli completi GARANZIE SANITARIE TEST COMPLETI 2025 ☑️ 16 Test Negativi tra cui: Genetici • Virali • Respiratori ☑️ Parassiti Interni & Esterni Testati ☑️ Screening Cardiaco HCM ☑️ Pedigree Ministeriale Afef ☑️ Contratto + Garanzie 24 mesi ☑️ Autorizzazione AUSL ☑️ Controlli Veterinari Specifici e Regolari ☑️ Microchip ( dove previsto per legge) ☑️ Certificato di Buona salute ☑️ Doppio ciclo vaccinale ☑️ FIlosofia Medica " primum non nocerem" vedi dettagli completi SERVIZI GRATUITI per L' ADOTTANTE ☑️ Supporto Post-Adozione a vita: Consulenza Alimentare, Naturopatica ,Comportamentale) ☑️ BOX PARTENZA : Cibo surgelato BARF - 1 settimana ☑️Percorso "Preparazione all' Adozione" in 4 step. ☑️ Prova di Tolleranza all' Allergene Feld1 ( il gatto Norvegese è ipoallergenico) POSSIBILITA' ☑️ Casetta Vacanza con giardino protetto ☑️ Fornitura BARF - dieta mensile vedi dettagli completi Nuovo articolo sul Blog! Cuccioli Disponibili Allergia al gatto? Il Norvegese è ipoallergenico! prenota la tua prova GRATUITA! Cuccioli Disponibili "What does Safeguarding the Norwegian Cat mean?" Above all it means respecting the great work that has been done in the past by great passionate breeders, trying to safeguard those genealogical lines that risk getting lost, thus impoverishing the genetics of this Magnificent Breed. It means that my cats are first of all my family, companions of life, and it is with this spirit that I undertake to respect all their ethological needs, which are always put first, with respect to human needs. My cats are free to climb, run, play, in large protected enclosures, without over-population, with areas organized in compliance with their ethological needs. I live with my cats all stages of life, from birth, to pregnancy, to old age. If my neutered cats live well together with other fertile cats, they stay with me, otherwise they are entrusted to trusted families who will request them. I use for them the best Natural food, BARF, based on meats for human use prepared by me. I take care of my cats with a holistic approach, making use of specialized veterinarians My Affix (Name of the Kennel) is registered in ANFI (Italian national feline federation) Anfi is one of the 41 members of the FIFe and is Legally recognized with DM 6/8/1997 Authorized to manage the Breed Book of the Purebred Cat with DM 9.6.2005 prot. 22790 modified with DM 13.10.2008 prot. 12953 "A heartfelt Thanksgiving goes to the families who have welcomed my puppies in the past but also those who will do so in the future; it is also thanks to you if I will be able to continue in the dream of Protecting this Magnificent Natural Breed" Salvaguardia Salvaguardia Salvaguardia Salvaguardia storia e leggenda storia e leggenda storia e leggenda storia e leggenda The story of the Norwegian Forest cats was born many centuries ago, when the Nordic legends already saw it described in the mythological tales of which it is the protagonist next to the goddess Freya and the god Thor. Around 1220, Snorri Sturluson, poet, historian, scholar and narrator of myths and legends, wrote the "EDDA" ("great-grandmother"), a text that describes the Nordic mythology of pagan Scandinavia, in which large sleeping cats are mentioned long in the tales of these two Nordic deities. The first description of this breed dates back to 1599 when a naturalist, the Danish friar Peter Claus Friis, who lived for a long time in Norway, defined three categories of lynx: the wolf-lynx, the fox-lynx and the cat-lynx. last class plausibly indicated the progenitors of our Norwegian Forest cat. The original name in Norwegian is “Norsk Skogkatt”: Norsk -> Norwegian, Skog -> Forest, Katt -> Cat. The work "Norwegian Folk Tales" written by Asbjornsen and Moe was then published in 1835, with which the Norwegian Forest Cat, becomes part of Norwegian literature and culture. In the work “Norwegian folk tales” he is called "Huldrekat" ("huldre" = wood nymph) and described as a wood cat with a large and bushy tail. In the fairy tales that were later handed down to the Brothers Grimm, this cat probably impersonated, with its long-haired culottes and the hind leg covered with undercoat, the well-known "Puss in Boots". In 1912 the Norwegian author Gabriel Scott wrote a very popular children's book called "Sølvfaks" in which the protagonist of the story is a cat of the woods. Around 1930 some Scandinavian breeders took an active interest in this autochthonous feline and started a breeding with the aim of safeguarding the originality of the species, selecting the subjects for their morphology and thick fur, trying to preserve it from mating with cats to short-haired and other genetic contamination. Already since 1940, during the 2nd World War, this type of cat was used by the Danish army with specific functions entrusted to forest cats during postal transport for the protection of precious goods, parcels and dispatches from the systematic destruction of mice. Only in 1965 these cats, considered "postal officers", were deleted from government registers. In 1943, a book entitled "Cats, wild animals and domestic friends" was published in Norway on the breeding of the Norwegian Forest Cat (authors Reidar and Lund), which aroused much interest in the fate of the national cat and in which the bases for the breeding of the Norwegian were treated: In the years that followed, the search for absolutely pure subjects became the goal of enthusiasts who worked hard for the salvation of the breed against the looming danger of extinction caused by the extension of cities and the spread of short-haired cats. The first representatives of this breed appeared on display in 1969 and in 1973 Helene Nordane and Edel Runas of the Norwegian Feline Federation began the first serious selection and breeding program. In 1974, the first parent pair of Norwegian forest cats (the male Pan's Trulls by Else Nylund and the female Pippa Skogpuss by Edel Runas), the progenitors of all pedigreed Norwegian cats, was recorded in the Norwegian Origins Book. In December 1975 enthusiastic breeders of the breed founded the Norsk Skogkattring (Norwegian Forest Cat Club) which was an instant success.The breeding program was difficult for the following years as there were so few officially recognized relatives that a number of crossbreeding between relatives was inevitable. Before the new breed could be recognized by the FIFè (Fédération Internationale Féline), three complete generations had to be authenticated. In April 1977, when there were about 150 Norwegian Forest Cats registered in Norway, FIFe sent a German judge to a show in Oslo. His goal was to make a report on the new breed, to help the FIFè judges' commission decide on its future. In November 1977, Carl-Frederick Nordane traveled to Paris to attend the FIFé general assembly. He brought with him several photos of what would soon become a new breed. The judges recognized in Pan's Truls, brown tabby with white, the standard with which the entire breed would be identified and assigned the standard number 13 NF. This caused a lot of noise in the country of origin where the photo of Truls was broadcast on television announcing that the Norwegian forest cat had been officially recognized. In 1977 this led to official recognition by the International Feline Federation (FIFe), which was followed in 1984 in America by the definition of the standard by breeders belonging to the TICA (The International Cat Association). In 1987 the CFA (Cat Fancier's Association) also registered the first Norwegian Forest Cat. In Italy it was Elena Scorta (Valhalla kennel) who imported the first two Norwegian Forest Cats, Pan's Pallet, Artax and Sirika in 1988 - Below are some photos of cats from the first Italian breeders, Vallhalla , Vikjngs, Freja's Chariot, Silvanesti's, Ice Lanke, Moon Cat's, Sibelius, ...._ cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ Photos courtesy of the owners, please ask for permission before using. A great effort was made in recent years to find suitable specimens for breeding that would guarantee a gene pool rich enough to avoid the risks of mating between relatives and this commitment was continued in Scandinavia as well, until 1990, then it was decided to stop the recognition of new subjects coming directly from the woods, the ancestral ones (called "novices"). _d04a07d8- 9cd1-3239-9149-20813d6c673b__d04a07d8-9cd1- 3239-9149-20813d6c673b_Only in 1993 the breed was officially recognized worldwide and the international standard and code definitively formalized. Among the pioneering breeders Else Nylund with her kennel "Pan's" and Randi and Arild Grotterød with their kennel "Torvmyra" deserve a special mention, who contributed substantially to the breed. The reason why these two kennels are particularly remembered is that even today it is almost * impossible to find a cat among the most beautiful of the breed whose pedigree does not have a "Pan's" or "Torvmyra" ancestor in the bloodline. A Special Thanks goes to my dear Norwegian friends, Gunn Inigrid and Roald Pedersens (FRU PEDERSEN'S cattery) for giving me these 3 precious books now nowhere to be found. Home STORA GATTO NORVEGESE

Dieta Barf per gatti, come iniziare, come transitare da alimenti industriali a alimentazione naturale- Passare da crocchette a carne, alimentazione per gatti TRANSIZIONE BARF DEL GATTO FEEDING BARF CAT ATTENTION: This article is not a guide to follow to the letter, take the articles as a starting point to find the best path for you and your friend. If the cat is not healthy you will have to contact a nutritionist who will formulate a diet barf suitable for your cat and its problem . 1) THE CATS AND THE BARF START THE CAT ON A DIET WITH BONES AND RAW MEAT Kittens and some adult cats instinctively recognize natural raw food the very first time it is offered to them. Unfortunately, however, most adult cats who are offered a raw meat and bone diet tend to be unenthusiastic and need some encouragement. Change can probably be a bit problematic and therefore we need to know how to move. Do you usually shake the packet of fish croquettes before pouring them into the bowl? What do you tell the cat when it comes running? Food rituals may be different, but the timing, taste, texture, sight, sound and smell all play a role. Your cat is most likely attached to these strong stimuli, and you, as the care giver, have probably gotten used to the way that works best for you. You literally fueled the addiction. Now imagine the future with your lithe feline crouching hunting chicken necks, quail and whole raw fish. If your cat is young and healthy, you can initiate the change… however, if your cat is overweight, has dental or other problems, you may want to consult your vet before starting a different diet. Preventing access to food for 12 hours is an essential first step. Instead, starting a once-a-day routine, say at 6 p.m., the biological clock will soon synchronize and its anatomy, physiology and behavior will line up, at the same time, in the kitchen. Once the new routine is established, the transition to the new food can begin. There are several “tricks” that can be useful both individually and in combination. A hungry cat will most want to sniff, lick, and eventually eat the new food, so cut back on the amount of canned or dry food. (Do not leave your cat without food for more than 20 hours). Establish only one food, such as chicken, that you want your cat to get used to. The taste and texture of raw food are two things you need to get your cat used to. (Chewing on the bones comes next). Then cut a few strips of chicken and cover them in the bowl with the food on the market. In the following days the quantity of raw meat and decrease that of the croquettes. When raw meat is fully accepted, try increasing the size of the pieces until the chicken necks and wings completely replace the chicken strips. Over the next few days, keep giving less and less commercial food, increasing the amount of raw food. Another trick is to lightly sear the meat (never the bones!) In the pan or under the grill.You can try mixing the liquid from the canned fish with the meat or sprinkle it with crumbled croquettes. You could tempt your fussy feline by making deep cuts in the skin and flesh of chicken wings and bobbins and stuffing them with canned food. You can try tying a chicken wing to a string and playing catch it. If you have multiple cats, they compete and learn from each other. Perseverance pays off, and ten days is enough time for a difficult cat to switch to the new diet. It is best to get your cat used to eating chicken before introducing quail, rabbit, fish, birds or similar food into the diet. In that case, another dose of patience and tricks may be needed… STILL PROBLEMS? Rule # 1: This is not a competition It is critically important that the transition to a new healthy diet occurs very very slowly. The cat has a unique metabolism. If you make dietary changes too quickly, there is a good chance that the cat will simply stop eating, because the new food does not meet its wishes. If you fast, you run the risk of developing a life-threatening condition called hepatic lipidosis, also known as fatty liver disease . That's why you shouldn't even consider making an instant switch from old food to a healthier one. Despite what you may believe, your cat doesn't necessarily eat when hungry. It is known that cats can also starve to refuse a certain type of food. If your cat refuses to eat and develops liver lipid, it will be very tiring to try to save it, and there is no guarantee of success. The last thing you want is a deadly sick cat, a very high vet bills, or the terrible sorrow of losing your furry cat . Please take this advice seriously. Switch very slowly to a healthier diet for your cat calmly. If your cat is a "tough guy" be prepared to spend at least six months, or even a year, switching to the raw food diet. Your consistency, determination, patience - a lot of patience - and even the tricks, one day will pay off . Rule # 2: given a choice, the cat will make the wrong one. There are lots of comments on the HealthyPets forum (which we thank!) From cat owners begging for help in getting their pets to eat better quality food. The point is that the cat is not instinctively inclined to eat healthy food, and this is even more true if it is used to fatty, resulting and poor quality foods. Faced with the choice between his usual processed, very fatty, salt-filled croquettes and a meal that is suitable for the species, alive and raw, your strayed cat will choose the first and turn up his nose at the food he has in really need it for his own good. Your feline companion is an obligate carnivore. If he lived outside alone, he would hunt and eat mice. Cats are "programmed" to eat mice because mice provide exactly the type of protein and amount of fluids felines thrive on . How many of us in the field of animal care, including the American Association of Cat Practitioners (AAFP), who encourage cat owners to switch their pets from dry to wet food, do so because wet food is more like to your cat's natural diet. This reduces biological stress, which in turn reduces the potential for disease. Many dry cat foods are inexpensive. They certainly are affordable. And they sustain life. But they are neither biologically appropriate nor appropriate for the species . Feline renal failure - an all too common, debilitating and sometimes fatal condition - is often encountered in cats that have lived in chronic dehydration for their entire lives due to a dry food diet. 2) LET'S TALK ABOUT PERCENTAGES! DAILY QUANTITY, suggested: Kittens: 80-100 gr / kg CURRENT weight / al of (divided into 3 to 4 meals per) Adult cat: 30-40 gr / kg IDEAL weight / above (divided into 2 meals per day) Pregnant / lactating cat: 60-80 gr / kg weight al di If the cat loses too much weight, it is remedied by giving more food, and / or by inserting foods with a higher fat value, if the cat gains too much weight it is remedied by giving less food. SUGGESTED POWER PERCENTAGES: 15-20% bones pulpose (OP) 15-20% heart 8-10% liver 4-6% other organs 58- 44% boneless meat (CSO) WARNING: Raw pork is ALWAYS recommended, as cats are very susceptible to Aujezsky's virus, a 100% lethal disease. The percentages indicated above are purely guidelines, they are adjusted according to the needs of each individual subject. For neo-barfists the pulpy bones (OP) can be: chicken necks, chicken wings / bats, chicken carcass, quail carcass, rabbit carcass. The thighs of the above-mentioned animals are harder / denser, and once the cat can digest the softer OPs well (observe the possible presence of ossicles in the faeces and / or vomitings in an assairicurrent way). Eventually, at the beginning, the hardest OPs can be crushed by hitting them with a heavy hammer. (Covering the OP with a rag, to avoid splattering of meat) Boneless meat (CSO) could be of any type, for example breast / rump of chicken / turkey, stew of beef, lamb, dianitra, head of beef, etc etc. The choice is wide. Organs: you can administer hearts, livers, gizzards (durelli) of chicken, turkey, rabbit, duck, guinea fowl, beef, veal, lamb etc etc… The liver consists of approx. 3-5% of the total menu, the heart approx. 8-10% of the total on the menu, the rest of the organs can be gizzards (durelli), kidney, lung etc, so on and on and on and on. Also could be included in the diet: oily fish (sardines, mackerel, salmon etc) whole eggcrude, with shell, dairy products, fish oil, some green tripe, some raw vegetables and blended or cooked and NOT blended (both not necessary, but if likes can be offered without any problem). The fish, if desired, can be given in the measure of approx. 5-10% of the total amount. Prefer blue fish, as it is rich in omega 3. (Fish maximum about 10%, of which maximum about 5% blue fish) The more the type of CSO and OP varies, the better it is for the cat's health. For example, you could have a rabbit or duck meal (OP), adding horse, lamb or beef (CSO), chicken organs, an egg and yoghurt. Again, this is just an example !!!! Nothing prevents you from diversifying and balancing instead over a week or two. Considering the fact that the cat is a predator of small prey, such as mice, birds, rabbits / hares, insects, reptiles, lizards, etc. we try to imitate this supply as much as possible. In any case, the cat can also eat beef, lamb, deer and other large animals CSO. -------------------------------------------------- -----------------------------

SC Fram's P. Teddy Bear, DVM, M, NFO w 63, 2007-07-05, CH / NL Polaris Analysis = 11,1% http://www.vantkortewoud.nl/

Il ruolo cruciale della "Fibra Animale" Nel mondo della nutrizione dei gatti, siamo abituati a pensare alle fibre come a un concetto esclusivamente vegetale: zucca, zucchine, carote, psillio o psyllum... etcc Una ricerca pubblicata sul Journal of Animal Physiology and Animal Nutrition (Depauw et al.) https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22074361/ ha gettato luce su un concetto spesso ignorato, spesso rifiutato, ma fondamentale per i carnivori obbligati: la fibra animale. Lo Studio Lo studio ha monitorato 14 ghepardi in cattività, confrontando due alimentazioni diverse: Carne di manzo integrata (senza parti strutturali) Prede intere (coniglio completo) I risultati sono stati sorprendenti. I Risultati Chiave Riduzione dei Metaboliti Tossici Con prede intere (pelle, ossa, cartilagine, pelo), i ricercatori hanno riscontrato: Drastica diminuzione di indolo e fenolo nelle feci Queste sostanze tossiche derivano dalla putrefazione proteica Se assorbite, sovraccaricano reni e organi vitali Microbioma Più Sano Profilo di acidi grassi a catena corta più equilibrato Fermentazione intestinale più regolare Flora batterica benefica e stabile L'Effetto Prebiotico dei Tessuti Connettivi Collageni, cheratine e proteine strutturali agiscono come: Fibra naturale nel colon Regolarizzano il transito intestinale Nutrono la flora batterica benefica Attenzione! La BARF non è solo carne cruda. La vera BARF “ quella che porta i maggiori benefici” replica la struttura della preda intera. Il gatto è un carnivoro obbligato evolutosi per consumare l'animale intero. Ignorare componenti come ossa polpose, connettivi, piume o pelliccia significa privare l'intestino del tuo gatto della "fibra animale" di cui ha estremamente bisogno. I Tre Elementi Cruciali 1. Le Ossa Polpose Non sono solo calcio e fosforo. Forniscono: Struttura rigida = "spazzolino naturale" per i denti Feci compatte e ben formate Collagene e glicosaminoglicani = articolazioni e intestino forti Azione diretta come fibra animale 2. Connettivi e Cartilagini Spesso scartati, ma essenziali: Ricchi di collagene e proteine strutturali Agiscono come "pulitori naturali" intestinali Alimentano il microbioma benefico 3. Piume e Pelliccia (la Fibra Dimenticata) Sebbene non essenziali in ogni pasto: Cheratina = fibra animale pura Pulizia meccanica naturale delle pareti intestinali Replica esattamente ciò che un gatto mangerebbe in natura Come Introdurre la Fibra Animale in Sicurezza Per animali non abituati è fondamentale un'introduzione graduale! I Passaggi Corretti Inizia con poco: Orecchie di coniglio ( qualche pezzetto) Pulcini essiccati ( 1/4) Quaglie piumate ( inizialmente, leva 2/3 delle piume) Pelliccia un pizzico Monitora attentamente: Osserva la reazione del tuo animale Se ben tollerato, aumenta gradualmente Massimo del 1-2%: Non superare questa percentuale della razione giornaliera Segnali di allarme: Riduci o sospendi se noti: Vomito Diarrea Stitichezza prolungata Consulta Sempre Se il gatto non è sano o se l animale è anziano -geriatrico consulta il Veterinario Nutrizionista per un piano personalizzato. Call +39 3894984632 Email Karin@barfcoach.it torna alla pagina delle informazioni

Come calcolare la percentuale corretta di ossa polpose nella dieta barf? Una delle difficoltà maggiori che si incontrano nella formulazione di una dieta a crudo per i carnivori di casa è quella di stabilire quale sia la corretta quantità di ossa crude da utilizzare. I gattini hanno un fabbisogno di calcio e fosforo più elevato rispetto ai gatti adulti. Pertanto, i rapporti PMR dei gattini hanno una percentuale di ossa commestibili più elevata. WELCOME - Welcome Nuova pagina CATS - Cats KITTENS - Puppies SKOGKATT - Norwegian Cat HEALT - Health BARF - Natural Nutrition ALLERGY - Allergy Blog CONTACT - Contact Risultati di ricerca More How to calculate the percentage of bone in the cat's diet One of the major difficulties encountered in formulating a raw diet for home carnivores is to establish the correct amount of bones to use. Given the universally accepted scheme for the prey model diet, 80/10/10 (80% muscle, 10% bone, 10% internal organs - of which 5% liver), it is necessary to understand what it actually means. 10% of bones. It is not practical to administer a "pure" bone, unless a cut of meat is stripped to perfection and weighed the bone that we have obtained: only in this way we will be able to know the exact weight. On the other hand, it is much easier to know the average percentage of "pure" bone contained in certain cuts of meat, so that we can identify the quantity we need by doing only a few short mathematical calculations (and not an operation bordering on surgery). How many bones do cats' main sources of nutrition contain? Topo _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb589094 -5905c5c3-3194-bb3b94-136bad5ccc3 136bad5cf58d_ 4.89% * Rat _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b94-136baddcc3% Rabbit _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb58,5% * 8bad5cf *** Chicken _cc781905-5cde-3194-3194-bb589094-5c3bcc5-3194-bb589094-136bad5ccc3 136bad5cf58d_ _cc781905-5cde-3194_5cf58d_cc781905-5cde-3194_b3b_d3b_b3b-136b5c3b_b3b_b3b-136b58-3194_b3b-136b Turkey _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb589094_5cbad5-136b58d81% -136cbad5cf Quail _cc781905-5cde-3194-3194-bb589094-5bcc5-3194-bb3b94-136bad5cd 136bad5cf58d_ 10% ***** Different protein sources contain different bone content: the bone density of a prey is directly proportional to its size. The key to a balanced diet, as always, is variety. An approximate average between these types of meat (the most used in feline nutrition) provides a figure of about 13%. However, it is necessary to modulate the amount of bones present in your cat's diet based on a guideline of this type but paying particular attention to its needs and therefore observing the consistency of the feces. A too high percentage of bones can cause constipation and therefore constipation, on the contrary a too low percentage of them can lead to not very consistent stools. As a result, one cat may need an 8% dose of bone and another, for example, 10-12%. If you use a whole prey diet it is quite immediate to understand how many bones you are feeding based on the data above. If, on the other hand, one is based on a prey model or frankeprey diet, thus using not the whole prey (divided according to weight in one or more daily or weekly meals) but rather parts of different prey it becomes a bit more complicated. -3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ It is therefore useful to know in this regard the percentage of bones (data obtained from the USDA National Nutrient Database ) found in the main cuts of meat (and not only in the whole prey), in order to be able to calculate the right amount to be administered: Chicken Wings _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-5894-5c5c3-3194-bb589094-136bad5ccc3 136bad5cf58d_ _cc781905-5cde-3194_bb5-bb3b-136bad3-136b58c5% Chicken thighs _cc781905-5cde-3181_ _cc781905-5cde-3181- bb3b94-136bddcc3 136bad5cf58d_ 27% Chicken Necks _cc781905-5cde-3181- bb3b94-136baddcc5-3194-bb589094-136bcc5-3194-bb589094-136bdcc3 136bad5cf58d_ 36% Chicken back 44% Turkey wings _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb589094-136bdcc3-3194-bb589094-136baddcc3 136bad5cf58d_ 33% Turkey necks 21% An adult cat weighing 5 kg, following a diet equal to 3% of its body weight, must take 150 grams of food daily, of which: 120 grams of muscle meat (80%) 15 grams of bones (10%) 7.5 grams of liver (5%) 7.5 grams of other organs (5%) If chicken wings contain about 46% of bones, it means that the cat will have to eat 32 grams daily in order to get to the 15 grams of bones needed. It is complicated to calculate the daily balance while it is much easier and more flexible to manage everything on a weekly basis. Following this reasoning, it therefore follows that a 5 kg cat must take a weekly food dose of approximately 1.050 kg of which: 840 grams of muscle meat (80%) 105 grams of bones (10%) 52.5 grams of liver (5%) 52.5 grams of other organs (5%) If we decide to provide the dose of bones using, for example, chicken wings, it will be necessary to dilute about 225 grams of chicken wings over the course of seven days. While 46% is made up of bones, 54% is made up of muscle and skin. Therefore the weekly table can probably approach a pattern of this type: 718 grams of muscle meat (we got about 122 grams of muscle from chicken wings) 225 grams of chicken wings 52.5 grams of liver 52.5 grams of other organs Based on these calculations, a weekly (or daily) table can be created using different types of meat of our choice in a simple and fairly precise way. SOURCES * http://web.archive.org/web/20021026162643/http:/www.serve.com/BatonRouge/nutrition/tissue_percentage_of_common_prey.htm ** http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/foods/show/779?fg=&man=&lfacet=&count=&max=&sort=&qlookup=&offset=format=Full&new= *** http://www.google.it/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFIQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.famu.edu%2Fcesta%2Fmain%2Fassets%2FFile % 2Fcoop_extension% 2Fherds% 2FRabbitManagement_and_Health_Issues1% 281% 29.pdf & ei = KpMdUa2WB47EtAaG8IDYDA & usg = AFQjCNG_YWjJdbed6bS3_mzqe6yzsknMlA2WB47EtAaG8IDYDA & usg **** http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/foods/show/935?fg=&man=&lfacet=&count=&max=&sort=&qlookup=&offset=&format=Full&new= ***** http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/foods/show/929?fg=&man=&lfacet=&count=&max=&sort=&qlookup=&offset=&format=Full&new= TEXT COPIED BY: http://cats-are-carnivores.blogspot.it/2013/02/how-much-bones-percental-di-ossa.html?m=1

mostre gatti norvegesi, esposizioni gatti, stress gabbie esposizioni, tratti morfologici, aspetto estetico, patologie gravi, occhi sporgenti, sofferenza animali When "beautiful" means "genetic abuse" GENETIC MALTRACTING The breed standard is that set of specific morphological and behavioral characteristics that a subject - be it a dog, a cat or any other animal - should have in order to be included in a particular breed. Therefore, the standard is a point of reference both for breeders, who should aim to create a good "subject" and always improve it, and for owners who wish to have a dog or cat that meets the "sacred canons" "of the breed object of their desire. However, when selection is pushed to the extreme to privilege some exclusively aesthetic characteristics without looking at functionality and resorting to extreme inbreeding, problems begin to arise and genetic maltreatment takes shape, a much more serious form of maltreatment than simple suffering inflicted on a single animal since, on the contrary, it affects a large number of subjects and can be perpetrated for many generations to come. WHAT FUELS GENETIC MALTRACTING? Obviously, the fault is not only of the breeders, of the judges and associations that push more and more towards extreme hypertypes in which the aesthetic qualities (and functional defects!) Are enhanced to the nth degree, but the responsibility is mostly to be attributed to the market demands and the desires of an increasingly demanding public that in doing so does not look without realizing it to animal welfare, but aims only at the satisfaction of a whim generated by the subliminal messages that arrive from society . History repeats itself and we have all had the opportunity to witness, over time, the boom of this or that breed, perhaps in conjunction with the release of a successful film or, more recently, due to the desire to own a dog or a cat like that of television stars or web influencers who hammer us daily with their images and videos on socials. Fickle, temporary and fleeting fashions with a huge round of money behind them, unfortunately at the expense of animals that, although aesthetically cute and "perfect", pay the price of our superficiality having to live with physical problems that they compromise their quality of life or even their survival. Already in the 60s of the last century , a certain awareness of the importance of the "healthy" over the "beautiful" began to grow within the veterinary world and something, at a European level, is starting to move, albeit slowly and with difficulty. Even in our country something is starting to take shape in this sense, such as the establishment of the Cbv (Bioethical Committee for Veterinary Medicine), in 2018, or the birth of associations such as Asetra (Association of ethological studies and protection of the relationship with animals) . Giovanni Cubeddu, former Professor of Forensic Medicine at the University of Sassari and president of Melefovet (study group of Forensic and Veterinary Forensic Medicine of the Italian Association of Small Animal Veterinarians), and Ferdinando Meregaglia, freelance from Turin and secretary of Melefovet, explained the legal implications of genetic maltreatment, an aspect that is too often overlooked, but which can also have important implications for the veterinarian. The need to satisfy market needs deriving from the rapid request for aesthetically pleasing subjects and respondents to the fashion of the moment inevitably involves the use of a pushed inbreeding, using a few breeding subjects that bring with them both the desired morphological characteristics and even serious problems, an issue that the WSAVA had raised as early as the 1960s. DOWNLOAD AND READ ALL THE ARTICLE HERE I think that you are missing a real awareness in people who approach, breed and buy_cc781905-5cde-3194-bb381-136_bad5cf58d-3194_bad5cf58d. -bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ Some cat breeds have undergone extreme changes in the course of less than 50 years, which have taken them to the extreme in terms of morphology and therefore health, for which the evidence is still denied . Although Anfi (Italian National Feline Association) has moved in this direction r expanding the registration in the herd books of some of these breeds, in my opinion, there are still lot work to do. Below I have inserted some links from which I hope you will take some food for thought ... Happy reading and viewing- Video Documentary on the influence of exhibitions on cat health of breed. 5-part BBC video documentary on the influence of dog shows on the health of purebred dogs. WHAT CAN WE DO? _Cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ download the pdf of the TICA association

allevamento gatti norvegesi a Parma, il significato del nostro nome, intervista sul nostro allevamento, video sul gatto norvegese, allevare il gatto norvegese "Disir Nornir" Amateur breeding, which deals with the protection and safeguard of the Norwegian forest breed Protecting the Norwegian cat means to me, safeguarding this NATURAL breed (read the origins of the breed) through the study and comparison with other breeders, trying to preserve those bloodlines that are being lost in favor of others, used simply for aesthetic purposes. How did I become a "Guardian" of the Natural Race Norwegian Forest Cat "? Sometimes I wonder too ... To tell the truth, I never chose it ... it has been a long journey .. made above all of love for these cats, creatures so perfect, loving, joyful, who fill your life with unconditional affection. I've always been an animal lover, since childhood, but my adventure with cats Norwegian forest starts in 2006; I saw my first Norwegian cat on the internet, maybe how is happening to you in this moment ... it was a beautiful white cat with magic eyes, a magnetic gaze, sweet but so full of pride ... This cat that remained so impressed on me his name was Noel Maelstrom. After some searching, to find a Norwegian in Italy, another photo kidnapped mine heart ..... it was him! Cagliostro Vani's Ark, what would be later became my first Norwegian Forest Cat ... What a thrill it was to go and get it !! I remember like it was yesterday, the walk in the center of Arezzo, with my beloved treasure in the carrier ... and the return trip with Cagliostro who was all composed and sat on the back seat with his paws crossed .... he was a real Lord! and he would have kept this beautiful pride of his forever ... until his last moments of life, where with that paw of his, slightly protruding his nails ... he squeezed my hand for the last time ... Day after day my passion has grown and the desire for knowledge has pushed me to deepen their history ... and so without realizing it and driven by the passion towards their history and their so proud character, _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b -136bad5cf58d_ I was already in Milan to pick up Genny ... the future bride of Cagliostro .... I had become a "Norwegian Guardian" without realizing it ".... and so over time new friends arrived, such as Vamyr, Crystal, Maya, Isak, Brisingamen, Coral, Castella, Riddick, Brilliant, Agra, Catelyn, Marvel, Kamiko, Erza ..... some of them lived only part of the their life with me .... others are gone ... Genny is 15 years old and lives with me while his children Willy and Charlie _cc781905- 5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ have recently left me ... It is not easy to explain for me who am not a writer, what a wonderful experience it is to be able to live with the Norwegian Cats ... treat them, see them born, grow .... but also being there in the moment of illness and death. .. all this becomes inevitably un personal growth path and despite the suffering to which it exposes me to raise, I am really grateful to these special beings, for everything they teach me every day , where their proximity, so clear and clean, is capable of healing your heart .. even from the most deep wounds. THE NAME "DISIR NORNIR" I have always been fascinated by mythology, since I was a child, but only thanks to the Norwegian cats, that I got to know Norse mythology. The Disir are a large group of female spirits who preside over Asgard, they determine the fate of all humans and gods. The three most important disir are the Nornir Urðr, Verðandi, and Skuld, whose names translate to "What is success "," What is happening "and" What will come " These three Nornir are hidden under Yddrasil, the World Tree, which has its roots in the water of the well of Urd and to prevent its roots from rotting the disir nornir scatter sand all around. As they sit under the world tree, Urðr, Verðandi, and Skuld weave the threads of man's destiny. Alongside these three Nornir there are many other Disir that come when a person is born in order to determine his fate, they are both benevolent and malevolent. Recent research has discussed the relationship between the Norns and the Valkyries, women who visited infants in pre-Christian Norse societies. The Disir Nornir remind me that the only constant in the universe is "Change" and with that in mind ... I imagine a large loom, the warp threads on the loom as our biological, spiritual, cultural heritage .... I imagine Urðr , Verðandi, and Skuld who weave the weft with the threads of our choices, which we have given them, the conscious and unconscious choices of all beings become the weft threads which are then woven together with the thread of inheritance and joining forming the magically mysterious fabric of the Multiverse. http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiverso

Come costruire un recinto sicuro per i gatti? Vi servirà rete metallica, pali, rete morbida, PVC o Acciaio, staccionate in legno per proteggere il perimetro nella parte inferiore , sia nella parte superiore - sul sito vasta galleria fotografica, video e tante informazioni su come procedere. HOW TO BUILD A CAT FENCE (CATRUN) I would like you to read carefully my reflections which arise from the experience in the breeding of Norwegian cats since 2006 and from living with cats since I was little. In the past to me firsthand and I guess many of you who are reading it happened that a feline friend for stupid domestic accidents, or road accidents that would have been _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b- 136bad5cf58d_quillly you could avoid. Unfortunately you have to take into account that the bred cats are still more dangerous to themselves, less cunning, and totally confident in the human being than a European / mixed breed cat grown on the street. As you may have noticed, when you entered the catrun at my house, and you met my cats for the first time, they had no problem being pampered by you, you could have easily brought them to you_cc781905 -5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_via and they would come with you ... this says a lot about their character and what I'm about to tell you. This font is very beautiful on the one hand, because you will have a cat spectacular that will occupy a special place in your heart .... but on the other, this very intelligent character of theirs e curious, combined with inexperience, creates an explosive mix, which exposes them to greater risks than a European cat, precisely because fear is absent in them. Gardens are a great joy and well-being resource for our puppies but at the same time they are a source of great danger. These purebred puppies are not born from mothers used to getting by, jumping from trees, climbing, having the perception of emptiness and measures, running away from a dog, and being exposed to dangers of various kinds. Fortunately and unfortunately are born from mothers who for generations grow up protected loved and respected by human beings, therefore they are not able to_cc75881__5c5c3bd-136905 -5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_to teach and above all to SHOW, what they non do inside a house. As you know, mothers are the reference point for puppies and teach, as human mothers do with their children, everything you need to approach life, with all the appropriate recommendations. (go slowly with that scooter! :-D) Too bad that cats never grow up and above all they don't learn from experience. A flight from the balcony or the window, a road crossed at the wrong time e will never grow up to be able to learn it. (among other things, there are cats with major relapses, precisely because the desire to escape and curiosity is stronger than the danger) Do not think enough to say: "I'm careful", because just get distracted for a moment to do anything and the cats, they will exactly the most dangerous things. Keeping cats safe, when you have gardens, is a duty because, in addition to incurring the dangers listed in the section of balconies, windows and terraces, in addition it could be stolen , being attacked by dogs or wild animals, falling into water collection bins, falling into wells or canals, being run over by cars, being stolen for use in dog fights, plus_cc781905-5cde- 3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ could come into contact with sick cats of fiv and felv, for which there are no cures or vaccines. (there is the vaccine the first cause of sarcoma in cats, so it should be avoided) Contagion occurs by contact, both of mucous membranes, of feces, urine, and of blood, through bites or scratches . Here are some solutions for gardens, such as partial, full, spring, or electric closures: This is "MOLLO" which can be installed on an existing safety net, but which must be at least 2.20 meters high (remember that a stationary cat also jumps up to a height of 3 meters) Here you can see the video of its operation: http://cosedagatto.com/proteggere/mollo/ LIBERO E MORTO? O RECLUSO E STRESSATO? I giardini sono una grande gioia e risorsa di benessere per i nostri cuccioli ma , sono allo stesso momento fonte di grande pericolo. Questi cuccioli di razza, non nascono da mamme abituate ad arrangiarsi, saltare da alberi, arrampicarsi, avere la percezione del vuoto e delle misure, fuggire di corsa a causa di un cane, ed essere esposte a pericoli di vario genere. Per fortuna e purtroppo nascono da mamme che per generazioni crescono protette amate e rispettate dall' essere umano, dunque non sono in grado di insegnare e sopratutto MOSTRARE, ciò che loro non fanno all interno di una casa. Come sapete le mamme sono il punto di riferimento dei cuccioli e insegnano, come le mamme umane fanno con i loro figli, tutto ciò che serve per approcciarsi alla vita, con tutte le raccomandazioni del caso. ( vai pianoooooo con quel motorino! :-D ) Peccato che i gatti non crescano mai e sopratutto non imparino dall esperienza. Un volo dal balcone o dalla finestra, una strada attraversata nel momento sbagliato e non cresceranno mai per poterlo imparare. ( tra l altro ci sono gatti con grandi recidive, proprio perchè la voglia di scappare e la curiosità è piu forte del pericolo ) Non pensate basti dire: " ci sto attenta" , perchè basta distrarsi un attimo per fare qualsiasi cosa e i gatti , faranno esattamente le cose più pericolose. Tenere in sicurezza i gatti, quando si hanno giardini, è doveroso perchè ,oltre ad incorrere a pericoli elencati nella sezione dei balconi , finestre e terrazzi, in più potrebbe essere rubato, essere attaccato da cani o animali selvatici, cadere in bidoni di raccolta acqua, cadere in pozzi o canali, essere travolto dalle auto, essere rubato per essere utilizzato nei combattimenti per cani, in più potrebbero venire a contatto con gatti malati di fiv e felv, per le quali non ci sono cure ne vaccini. ( esiste il vaccino felv, ma è la prima causa di sarcoma nel gatto, per cui sarebbe meglio evitarlo) Il contagio avviene per contatto, sia delle mucose, che delle feci urine, sia di sangue, attraverso morsi o graffi. Eccovi alcune soluzioni per giardini, come chiusure parziali, intere, a molla, o con elettricità: Questo è "MOLLO" che si può istallare su una rete di protezione già esistente, ma che deve essere alta almeno 2,20 mt ( ricordiamo che un gatto norvegese da fermo salta anche fino ad un altezza di 3 metri) Qui potete vedere il video del suo funzionamento: http://cosedagatto.com/proteggere/mollo/ Mollo-particolare Mollo-particolare3 rete ripiegata Recinzione alta circa mt 2,50 con rete ripiegata indentro, per la parte ripiegata meglio usare la rete morbida ,acquistabile su: retiprotezione.it o su zooplus.it rete ripiegata all interno Recinzione alta circa mt 2,50 con rete ripiegata indentro, per la parte ripiegata meglio usare la rete morbida ,acquistabile su: retiprotezione.it o su zooplus.it con rete piegata all' interno Recinzione alta circa mt 2,50 con rete ripiegata indentro, per la parte ripiegata meglio usare la rete morbida ,acquistabile su: retiprotezione.it o su zooplus.it con rete ripiegata Recinzione alta circa mt 2,50 con rete ripiegata indentro, per la parte ripiegata meglio usare la rete morbida ,acquistabile su: retiprotezione.it o su zooplus.it con rete ripiegata Recinzione alta circa mt 2,50 con rete ripiegata indentro, per la parte ripiegata meglio usare la rete morbida ,acquistabile su: retiprotezione.it o su zooplus.it con rete piegata all' interno. Recinzione alta circa mt 2,50 con rete ripiegata indentro, per la parte ripiegata meglio usare la rete morbida ,acquistabile su: retiprotezione.it o su zooplus.it catrun1 catrun5 catrun2 catrun15 catrun19 catrun10 catrun11 catrun26 catrun30 544149_4745355792031_1888823778_n 581776_4745356512049_1031145814_n 1002514_511148792293299_1187093385_n 798301_511146912293487_51991690_o 313297_4745357592076_668884915_n 181177_479683172059684_1220989542_n CD15 copy

Maestosi Gatti Norvegesi delle Foreste bianchi, ispirati alla leggenda della dea Freya, la divinità nordica dell'amore e della bellezza, il cui carro era trainato da splendidi gatti bianchi. Eleganza, mistero e natura selvaggia si fondono in questi meravigliosi felini." The White Norwegian Cats Cats can also lose their hearing due to age, like humans do. In this case it is generally a gradual process that is sometimes difficult to notice. The eardrums become less flexible and the sound is not transmitted effectively. Other cats, on the other hand, are born partially or completely deaf due to a genetic defect. In many cases this genetic defect is related to the pigment or is found much more often in totally white cats. In fact, completely white cats with blue eyes are well known to be very often affected by a congenital hereditary deafness that can involve one or both ears. Breed studies have therefore defined the relationship between deafness and white cats with blue eyes. The responsible gene is a dominant gene which is defined W (White). The first studies on this gene date back to 1930 and have been deepened in the following years. The W gene is a pigment-related gene in cats and is a dominant color gene, but it is not linked to albinism. Cats carrying this gene are not always solid white in color, but they often have colored patches on their heads which may disappear with age. In fact, we often see a young kitten with a colored speck, generally on the head, which then disappears in adulthood. The color that is hidden under the white cloak, dominated by W, is revealed by that speck! Because of this, white cats can produce non-white or two-tone kittens. This gene has complete penetration for white coats, in fact all cats that have this gene also have white coats, but it has incomplete penetration with regard to the blue color of the eyes, related to deafness, even if they are closely related. However, not all white cats are deaf and not all blue-eyed cats have a deafness defect. The penetration variable of deafness linked to the blue color of the eyes can be caused by the interaction with other genes or with environmental factors. Furthermore, if we are in the presence of deafness, this can refer to both eyes or even to only one eye, so it can be bilateral or_cc781905-5cde-3194badd_ . How do we know that the cat is deaf? These cats generally show some changes in behavior. We can notice it since, even calling them, they do not approach or do not notice when we return home. If the deaf cat lives with another cat, we will generally notice that it tends to refer to him for hearing. This means that we will often find him observing the other cat, to understand what is happening. If, on the other hand, it is a single cat in the house with the problem of deafness, it is much easier to notice this defect. The cat, for example, may sleep very soundly, may not notice when we enter the room and may not be aware of very loud noises even close to it. If there is no reaction to a very loud clap or noise, we can really suspect possible deafness. Find out how to live happily with a deaf cat White cats or albino cats? However, it must be specified that these cats are not albini. A true albino cat not only has a white coat, but also the eyes have no pigment, they appear pink. An albino cat is very sensitive to light and needs sunscreen on their ears to prevent skin cancer. However, this prevention is necessary for all white cats. White cats with blue, orange and green colored eyes are not albinos. Albinism is a very different mutation that causes color absence, not color coverage. In the presence of the W gene, white coat and blue eyes, we can have the absence of the glossy carpet (it also happens in some cats with blue eyes with diluted white coat - Siamese) or a very thin glossy carpet, which means that the visibility at night it is very small. This is one more reason not to allow the deaf white cat to go out! Some statistics Studies have shown that if: ◊ Un white cat has both blue eyes is 3-5 times more likely to develop deafness than a cat with non-blue eyes. ◊ A white cat with only one blue eye has about twice the opportunity to be deaf than a cat with both eyes of a different color. ◊ White long-haired cats are three times more likely to be bilaterally deaf. What are the problems encountered? Deaf cats emit very strong vocals just because they don't hear exactly like humans. Due to the extreme utility of hearing in predation and the ability to hunt, this can be reduced in completely deaf or partially deaf cats. Complete deafness, in any case, does not supersede success in hunting. A deaf cat responds equally to its predatory instinct. This is why vocalization in completely deaf cats is an important means of communication between cats, and deaf cats may be less good at communicating with their peers. Deaf cats can conflict with other cats much more often or fail to integrate well into a group. They may find it more difficult when they are still puppies and, moreover, they are more frequently rejected by their mother. Their reduced ability to recognize dangers is the most serious handicap especially when it comes to cats that live outside. Cars, dogs, garden machinery, are the biggest dangers. Cucciolata " ECLISSI" vieni a conoscere i nostri gattini bianchi! Norwegian Forest Cat BAER Testing Results

Etica Allevatoriale IL MIO IMPEGNO PER IL BENESSERE ANIMALE QUANTO COSTA UN GATTO NORVEGESE? Perche il prezzo non è sul sito?- Perché qui non c'è nessuna vetrina. Quando un gattino entra in un contratto di cessione, la legge lo trasforma in qualcosa che non è: un bene di consumo, soggetto alle stesse categorie di un elettrodomestico. Io non ci sto. Un gattino di Disir Nornir nasce da mamme e papà testati, selezionati in vent'anni di passione e costanza, screenati sanitaari. Viene svezzato con alimentazione naturale BARF, socializzato individualmente, seguito dalla nascita fino al giorno in cui entra nella tua famiglia e oltre. Mettere un prezzo su una pagina web significa inserirlo in una logica commerciale che non gli appartiene. Il contributo richiesto per l'adozione esiste, ed è trasparente. Non è il prezzo di un gattino. È il contributo che rende possibile fare le cose per bene. Se vuoi sapere l'importo, scrivimi o chiamami. Rispondo a tutti, senza fretta e senza giudizio. Ma quella cifra la condivido in una conversazione reale, non come etichetta su una vetrina, ne all domande che chiedono solo " prezzo?" senza un buongiorno, senza tenere conto che stiamo parlando di un essere vivente. Allevare eticamente significa… Vivere ogni giorno con consapevolezza e amore, scegliendo ciò che migliora davvero la vita dei gatti e non ciò che soddisfa solo i nostri desideri o interessi. Significa uscire dall’antropocentrismo, riconoscendo che i gatti non sono strumenti o progetti da modellare secondo il nostro metro umano, ma individui vivi, unici e meritevoli di rispetto. Ogni giorno mi impegno per garantire che ogni Norvegese delle Foreste cresca sereno, equilibrato e felice Rispetto dei tempi di recupero tra le cucciolate Ogni mamma ha bisogno del giusto intervallo tra una cucciolata e l’altra: tempi che non dipendono solo dalle regole delle associazioni, ma anche dalle esigenze fisiche ed emotive di ciascuna gatta. Garantire questo periodo di recupero è fondamentale per la loro salute e per crescere cuccioli equilibrati e sereni. Cura attenta della socializzazione e del benessere emotivo e a ccesso a spazi ampi, sicuri e stimolanti . Ogni gatto ha una personalità unica. La socializzazione e le attività quotidiane rispettano i loro ritmi, riducono stress e tensioni e includono stimoli naturali come arrampicate, gioco e interazioni positive. Le mamme e i papà dei miei cuccioli non vivono in gabbie né in stanze strette o sovrappopolate. I gatti fertili, per loro natura, sono soggetti a forti stimoli ormonali, competizioni e stress riproduttivi; per questo ho scelto di vivere in campagna, all’interno della riserva naturale Monte Prinzera, offrendo loro un ambiente sereno e naturale. Qui possono godere del sole, del contatto con l’erba e del terreno, senza convivenze forzate. Questo stile di vita permette loro di esprimere i comportamenti naturali: cacciare, arrampicarsi, godere di sole e erba, riducendo tensioni croniche e favorendo gatti adulti equilibrati, longevi e sereni, non “fabbriche di cuccioli” stressati. Gli spazi esterni dedicati ai gatti misurano 1000 mq e sono stati studiati per preservarli dai rari gatti randagi e dagli animali selvatici. Il perimetro è esternamente custodito da cani pastori maremmani ed è recintato “in doppio”: una parte esterna a protezione dell’intero perimetro Alimentazione naturale, bilanciata e personalizzata Cibo rispettoso dell’etologia felina, studiato per supportare salute, energia e sviluppo armonico. Controlli veterinari specialistici regolari Visite preventive, vaccinazioni, screening genetici e attenzione costante alla salute fisica ed emotiva di ogni gatto. Affidi responsabili e supporto alle famiglie Ogni cucciolo viene affidato solo a famiglie adeguate, con accompagnamento e consulenza continua su alimentazione, salute e comportamento. Rispetto delle caratteristiche individuali Nessun gatto viene forzato in attività o ambienti inadatti; se un gatto adulto non vive bene in allevamento, viene affidato a una famiglia adatta. Nessun maltrattamento genetico Nessuna consanguineità e nessuna selezione di caratteristiche fisiche estreme che possano compromettere salute o benessere. Trasparenza e documentazione Accesso ai certificati sanitari, pedigree e aggiornamenti regolari sullo sviluppo dei cuccioli. Programmazione consapevole delle cucciolate Numero di cucciolate controllato, pause adeguate tra le gravidanze e scelta delle accoppiate basata su salute e temperamento. Responsabilità etica e culturale L’allevamento non è finalizzato alla vendita o all’aspetto estetico bensì alla conoscenza , divulgazione della conoscenza della razza, educando le famiglie a comprendere e rispettare i bisogni dei Norvegesi delle Foreste. Igiene e sicurezza sanitaria Protocollo rigoroso per prevenire malattie, controlli di parassiti e gestione quotidiana di ambienti puliti e sicuri con spazi ampi che permettono una bassa popolazione.

Carne cruda per gatti: guida BARF completa ai tempi di congelamento di pollo, manzo, pesce e altri alimenti per ridurre rischi parassiti e virus." TUTTI I TESTI SONO DI PROPRIETA' DI KARIN PEDRONA -E' VIETATA L ' INTERA O PARZIALE RIPRODUZIONE DEI TESTI Natural Power La qualità inizia dal banco! 🥩 L' Acquisto Il congelamento serve soprattutto per ridurre il rischio parassitario, ma la carica batterica della carne dipende da quanto è fresca al momento dell’acquisto. Una carne appena arrivata al macellaio o al supermercato avrà meno proliferazione batterica rispetto a una che è rimasta diversi giorni nel banco o in cella frigorifera. Puoi prenotare la carne in anticipo dal tuo macellaio di fiducia o chiedere in quali giorni arrivano le nuove forniture al supermercato: così sei sicuro di congelare un prodotto con carica batterica più bassa. Ricorda: più fresca è la carne al momento del congelamento, più sicura sarà al momento della somministrazione al gatto. 👉 Non basta solo congelare: la scelta della materia prima è il primo passo verso una dieta cruda sana e sicura. ⚠️ Congelare non è sterilizzare Il congelamento non è una sterilizzazione: non elimina batteri come Salmonella o Listeria, e non è affidabile contro virus. Serve soprattutto per ridurre i parassiti (Toxoplasma, Anisakis, Sarcocystis) e fermare la carica batterica al punto in cui la troviamo al momento del congelamento Va detto in onestà che i gatti sono MOLTO più resistenti di noi ai batteri enterici, grazie all’acidità gastrica molto più forte e a un transito intestinale rapido, inoltre le patologie causate da Cryptosporidium, Sarcocystis e Toxoplasma sono molto rare. Per questo quando si fa dieta barf o si da carne cruda è sconsigliato l' utilizzo concomitante della crocchetta che rallenta il transito 📩 per sapere come fare una dieta BARF sicura ed equilibrata - Scrivimi a Karin@barfcoach.it ⏱️ Tempi di congelamento 👉 Regola generale (uso domestico): Il congelamento riduce i parassiti solo se la temperatura arriva a cuore del pezzo. I tagli più spessi richiedono più tempo. Per prudenza: imposta il freezer che scenda a –20 °C o mantieni i tempi più lunghi. Così il rischio si riduce al minimo e il tuo gatto può godere del crudo in sicurezza. 🐔 Pollo/Tacchino → –20 °C · 72–96 h 🐇 Coniglio → –20 °C · 72–96 h 🐮 Manzo → –20 °C · 96–120 h 🐑 Pecora/Agnello → –20 °C · 96–120 h (fino a 144 h se tagli spessi) 🐐 Capra → –20 °C · 96–120 h 🐟 Pesce (acqua salata) → –20 °C · 48–96 h (UE: 24 h a –20 °C o 15 h a –35 °C) 💧 Pesce (acqua dolce) → –20 °C · 7 giorni 🦑 Cefalopodi → –20 °C · 48–96 h 🦐 Crostacei → –20 °C · 48–96 h 🦪 Molluschi bivalvi → 🚫 solo cotti 🐷 Suino/Cinghiale → 🚫 solo cotti Nel Dettaglio: Pollame e Coniglio → Toxoplasma gondii Pollame e coniglio possono ospitare cisti di Toxoplasma gondii. Studi indicano che il congelamento a –12 °C per 2–3 giorni o a –20 °C per 2–4 giorni inattiva gran parte delle cisti (Alizadeh et al., 2018; Gracia et al., 2022). Per uso casalingo si consiglia prudenzialmente: –20 °C per 72–96 h. Manzo → Sarcocystis spp. e Toxoplasma Oltre a Toxoplasma, il manzo può ospitare Sarcocystis spp., parassita intracellulare più resistente. Studi recenti su ovini (Peris et al., 2024) raccomandano –20 °C per 96–144 h per eliminare le cisti. Raccomandazione pratica: –20 °C per 96–120 h. Pesci → Anisakis e altri Pesci d’acqua salata: rischio Anisakis. La normativa UE (Reg. 1276/2011) impone: –20 °C ≥24 h o –35 °C ≥15 h. In casa, meglio 48–96 h per compensare le performance ridotte dei freezer domestici. Pesci d’acqua dolce: rischio Opistorchis, Clonorchis, Diphyllobothrium. Richiedono tempi più lunghi: –20 °C per 7 giorni. Cefalopodi (seppie, calamari, polpi) Parassita principale: Anisakis. Stesse regole dei pesci: –20 °C per 48–96 h. Crostacei (gamberi, scampi, aragoste, granchi) Rischio parassitario basso, ma possibili contaminazioni da Anisakis e batteri marini (Vibrio, Listeria). Congelamento riduce il rischio parassitario, non elimina batteri. Raccomandazione: trattare come pesce → –20 °C per 48–96 h. Molluschi bivalvi (cozze, vongole, ostriche) Il rischio maggiore non sono i parassiti, ma virus e batteri accumulati per filtrazione: Vibrio, Norovirus, virus dell’epatite A. Congelamento NON li inattiva. Per l’uomo i bivalvi crudi sono un rischio documentato; per il gatto non ci sono prove solide, ma studi hanno trovato norovirus felini (FNoV) associati a diarrea nei gatti (Martella et al., 2015; Sumiyoshi et al., 2025). Vibrio è stato isolato anche in infezioni da ferita da morso di gatto, segno che il batterio può colonizzare i felini, pur senza prove forti di trasmissione alimentare. Raccomandazione: mai bivalvi crudi al gatto. Solo cotti o da fonti certificate. Suino e cinghiale → divieto assoluto Virus di Aujeszky (pseudorabbia) → sempre fatale per gatti e cani. Congelamento non è misura affidabile: il virus può resistere settimane. Regola: mai carne suina/cinghiale cruda. ✅ SALVA LE SLIDE per avere a portata di mano la tabella dei congelamenti Aiutami a continuare la mia opera di diffusione gratuita , regalami un like e un seguimi sui social! TUTTI I TESTI SONO DI PROPRIETA' DI KARIN PEDRONA -E' VIETATA L ' INTERA O PARZIALE RIPRODUZIONE DEI TESTI