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  • BARF- Alimentazione Naturale | gatti norvegesi

    Tutto ciò che vuoi sapere su come fare barf, libri, video, forum, info , link ... calculating bone percentages in the diet calculating bone percentages in the diet

  • Carattere | gatti norvegesi

    Il gatto Norvegese delle Foreste è una creatura fiera e maestosa, con un cuore grande e gentile, con i suoi occhi penetranti e il portamento elegante, incarna la bellezza selvaggia. È un compagno leale e giocoso, che ama esplorare e arrampicarsi. Nonostante il suo aspetto forte e robusto , è dolce e affettuoso, sempre pronto a fare le fusa accanto a te.dolcissimo con i bambini, la sua presenza calma e rassicurante trasforma ogni casa in un luogo accogliente e pieno d'amore the Character of the Norwegian Cat Until you have loved a Norwegian Cat a part of your soul will always be without light ... LOVING PROUD JOYFUL BOLD CLUMSY PARTICIPATES GOOD GARBATO STUBBORN OUTGOING ADVENTED IMPRUDENT FRIENDLY SENSITIVE PATIENT STUBBORN COMMUNICATIVE ELEGANT PRICKLY As a first note on the Norwegian Cat character I absolutely want to dispel a hard-to-die myth: " the male is more cuddly than the female or vice versa" This is absolutely false! sex does not determine the degree of affection. Often when you start looking for a cat, the question that arises is: Male or Female? It could easily happen to commit the error of relying on previous experience looking for "that affection" in the same sex as the previous cat, NOTHING MORE WRONG. You will soon realize if you come to visit me! My female cats are extremely affectionate, cuddly, outgoing, as are the males. What makes the difference is not the sex of the cat, but the time you will dedicate to interacting with her / him, obviously if you relate without prejudice, this will allow you to grasp other nuances of character, which are _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b- 136bad5cf58d_typical of that individual and perhaps, you will be amazed by feeling in harmony with a male, rather than a female. Being affectionate is one of the typical characteristics of this breed, both males and females alike. Who has never met him live and observes him from a photograph, due to his size, his proud appearance and his look so "feline" _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b- 136bad5cf58d_ may have the impression that the Norwegian Forest Cat is a detached cat .... cold ... But it will be enough to meet him live only once, to have a totally different perception and to grasp his infinite sweetness. The Norwegian cat does not meow but emits a sound similar to a trill or to the sound emitted by lynxes, it has a great ability to modulate its voice based on what it wants to express ... (we just have to find the translator! " :-D) To show us or ask for affection, the Norwegian cat invents them all, from supon a table to get to give the typical little heads, small bites, or to use his trotters to make us a caress _cc781905 -5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_o to touch us to attract our attention ..... _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb589094-136bad5cde-3194-bb589094-136bad5ccc3 -bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ 1_cc7819094-badd5-136bcc5_b58f5-3194-badd5-136bcc5_ -5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136badc5cf58d5-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d5 -1394c5-3194c5905-3194c5-3194c5-3194c5-3194d81-3194b905 bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ _cc7819094-badd5-136bcc5__cc7819094-5cde-136badc5-3194-badd-136bcc5_ 5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ (page under construction, come back to visit us ....)

  • Le Regole della Dieta BARF per il Gatto

    B.A.R.F. ( bones and raw food) è una DIETA , uno STILE ALIMENTARE, a base di vari alimenti di origine animale CRUDI e di BUONA QUALITA, in maniera da poter apportare tutti i nutrienti di cui necessita il gatto. La dieta Barf si propone idealmente di ricostruire idealmente la preda del gatto ;OSSA POLPOSE, ORGANI, TENDINI, CARTILAGINI, PELLE, CARNE che mirano a sostituire piume/ pelliccia, sangue, organi , contenuto dello stomaco e intestino. Natural Power TUTTI I TESTI SONO DI PROPRIETA' DI KARIN PEDRONA -E' VIETATA L ' INTERA O PARZIALE RIPRODUZIONE DEI TESTI PREMESSA BARF, NON SIGNIFICA DARE POLPA CRUDA A CASO! B.A.R.F. ( bones and raw food) è una DIETA , uno STILE ALIMENTARE, a base di vari alimenti di origine animale CRUDI e di BUONA QUALITA, in maniera da poter apportare tutti i nutrienti di cui necessita il gatto. La dieta Barf si propone idealmente di RICOSTRUIRE LA PREDA DEL GATTO, quindi ; OSSA POLPOSE, ORGANI, TENDINI, CARTILAGINI, PELLE, CARNE SENZA OSSA, ALTRI ALIMENTI COME INTEGRAZIONI o INTEGRATORI che mirano a sostituire piume/ pelliccia, sangue, organi , contenuto dello stomaco e intestino - tutti questi elementi sono ESSENZIALI. Se volete iniziare a nutrire il vostro gatto con BARF tenete presente che NESSUNO di questi alimenti dovrà mancare nella sua dieta. Diversamente potrete avere STIPSI, DIARREA, INAPPETENZA, CARENZE NUTRIZIONALI, , etcc... Prima di iniziare a proporre questa dieta, leggete e imparate i FONDAMENTI di questa dieta- * * * Se non vi sentite sicuri , potete utilizzare il servizio BARF COACH che vi aiuterà passo a passo a comprare, gestire , preparare e somministrare la dieta BARF - Potete contattarmi via E-Mail : karin@barfcoach.it oppure telefonicamente al +39 3894984632 Sono Karin Pedrona “Tecnico della Dietetica e Nutrizione Veterinaria” Specializzata in Dieta BARF per il Gatto. REGOLE BARF - BASE- SEMPLICE Per un calcolo più preciso delle ossa polpose visitare la sezione dedicata Regole per una alimentazione a base di Carne, Ossa e Organi crudi Adatta a un gatto adulto sano ATTENZIONE le percentuali sotto indicate si intendono NON MACINATE. Come iniziare: (Acronimi: CSO: carne senz’ osso OP: ossa polpose ) Pesare il gatto, una volta trovato il peso , calcolare il 2 o 3 o 4% ; questo sarà il peso totale dei pasti giornalieri ( esempio : gatto di 6 kg = 6x3:100 = g 180 ) ( alcuni gatti mangiano il 2% altri potrebbero arrivare anche a 4% , siate flessibili , l’ attività, lo stato riproduttivo, la temperatura, le stagioni... molti fattori influenzano la quantità di cibo necessaria) Questi 180 g dovranno essere costituiti da: circa 66 % carne senza osso ( di cui max 10% di cuore) circa 15% di ossa polpose di vario genere circa 5% Altre interiora a rotazione ( polmoni , rene , milza, cervello) circa 5% Fegato circa 4% Verdure foglia verde, Verdura cotta. Erba a disposizione Queste proporzioni è importante che siano rispettate per evitare “sul lungo periodo” di avere carenze, questo significa che potete sommare le quantità giornaliere e dare , per esempio il fegato una volta a settimana, così come il cuore o anche altri organi, ma l importante è che nell’ arco di 1-2 settimane, riusciate a dare tutto. ( può accadere che gli organi somministrati, in quantità sommata, un unica volta a settimana, causi vomito o dissenteria, se accade somministrare gli organi nelle giuste proporzioni giornalmente) Per una miglior assimilazione dei nutrienti, sarebbe meglio dare ossa polpose , organi e polpa, giornalmente. QUALI SONO LE OSSA POLPOSE ? le Quaglie - NON SONO OSSA POLPOSE - sono da considerare " carne senz' ossa + ossa polpose! Le ossa polpose sono letteralmente quelle ossa che sono rivestite da carne e che sono più morbide delle altre, per esempio rispetto alle cosce che solitamente sono più dure e possono essere: colli, ali, costato di pollo - faraona- anatra, costato ,collo, zampe anteriori e spalle di coniglio, tutte le ossa / carcassa , dei galletti piccoli da 400 gr. COME E CHE TIPO DI CARNI USARE ? Non scarti di macelleria, dei quali non si conosce la freschezza, ne la contaminazioni con carne di maiale. Possibilmente biologiche - allevate all’ aperto- grassfeed- Maiale: NO- attenzione pseudorabbia di Aujezeky Alternare almeno 4 fonti diverse tra quelle elencate qui sotto, alternando possibilmente anche i tipi di interiora, per esempio alternare cuore di manzo, con quello di tacchino, di pollo, di coniglio e via dicendo... Variare è la chiave per evitare carenze, sovra-dosaggi, intolleranze, o svogliatezza nel mangiare. Carni consigliate: Coniglio, quaglia, faraona, anatra, tacchino, pollo, struzzo, piccione Carni a somministrazione limitata: Pesce: non più del 10% del totale settimanale ( se fresco surgelare per almeno 3 giorni) Alternare pesci piccoli come alici, sardine, latterini con pesci senza tiaminasi , più informazioni qui Manzo e Cavallo: non più del 10-20 % del totale settimanale: manzo mediamente grasso ( non vitello) FRATTAGLIE / INTERIORA: FEGATO: Usare possibilmente Coniglio o Pollo No Maiale CUORE: Manzo, tacchino, pollo, anatra, faraona, agnello No Maiale e Vitello MILZA/RENI/POLMONE: Manzo, tacchino, pollo, anatra, faraona, agnello No Maiale VERDURA-FIBRA: COTTE: alternare tra Zucca, Carota, Fagiolini, Zucchine, Finocchio CRUDE: soncino, valeriana, insalata verde, erba I NTEGRAZIONI NATURALI UTILI Fino a 2 rosso d’ uovo di gallina a settimana- o fino a 6 uova di quaglia ( possibilmente allevate all aperto) si può dare anche il bianco, ma deve essere cotto a differenza de tuorlo. Yogurt bianco senza zucchero o Kefir a piacere, gamberetti, vongole, scampi, polpo, rane, Pastiglie o scaglie di lievito di birra secco- Sangue surgelato o secco, sale ( 1 pizzico a settimana) , olio di olive EVO spremuto a freddo- Perle di Omega 3 in caso il gatto non mangi pesce )- burro di cocco, semi di vario tipo semi di girasole, chia, zucca - Latte di capra, ricotta di capra, Parmigiano reggiano. I GRASSI Se si utilizza solo polpa molto magra si deve prevedere l aggiunta di pelle o altri grassi animali come il burro GHE, ma la cosa migliore è acquistare tagli di carne con pelle, o carni mediamente grasse. PREDE INTERE O SEMI INTERE ( quaglie senza piume e interiora) Le Prede intere non sono un argomento facile nella dieta barf, ma è anche vero che non sono essenziali , per cui potete evitare di darle se vi creano problemi, Se si riesce però a fare un piccolo sforzo, i nostri gatti potrebbero trarne un grande beneficio in termini di assunzione di nutrienti che spesso mancano nella carne che acquistiamo al supermercato, come il sangue , l intestino, ghiandole, piume e pelliccia, stomaco etcc.... ma non solo , anche a livello psicologico, portano grandi benefici. Quaglie, piccioni, pulcini, topolini-- con piume/ pelo Se si utilizzano le prede intere nella loro alimentazione, per quel pasto la quota di ossa e interiora è già inclusa- In caso di utilizzo di quaglie senza interiora/piume e testa, va aggiunto il cuore le interiora e le verdura, sono quindi da considerare come Carne senza ossa + ossa polpose GLI ESSICCATI È possibile lasciare a disposizione tra un pasto e l altro carne o pesce essiccati; verificare che non sia un impasto macinato con additivi, ma che sia vera carne/pesce. Ricordate che una parte di essiccato vale all incirca come 3-4 di crudo in termini di quantità, ma a differenza del crudo ha perso molti elementi nutritivi, per tanto non può essere considerato un pasto completo, ma uno sneack- Questi spuntini possono essere usati nascondendone qualche pizzico dentro appositi giocattoli, oppure crearli con piccole scatole facendo un buco dove il gatto possa con le zampe , tentare di estrarli.( simulando così la caccia) Insetti In natura i gatti cacciano anche insetti che sono una parte importante della loro dieta, poichè ricchi di sostanze nutritive. Per chi desidera usarli, è possibile trovarli in vendita vivi o surgelati on line . TEMPI di CONGELAMENTO DELLA CARNE E DEL PESCE Carne di pecora e capra -14 giorni Carne bovina , Coniglio , Pollo e altri volatili ,Pesci di acqua salata, Molluschi cefalopodi -4 giorni Carne di ruminanti selvatici , lepre o altra cacciagione - 14 giorni Carne di cavallo -21 giorni Pesci d’ acqua dolce – 7 giorni Molluschi bivalvi -1 giorno Crostacei -non serve congelare ( fonte Medici Veterinari: Valerio Guiggi, Fulvio Tonello, Nunzio Strusi) Carne di suino e cinghiale – !!!solo cotta!!!- (il congelamento non uccide il virus della pseudorabbia di Aujezky per cui l italia non è indenne) ERRORI DA NON FARE Errori comuni che possono portare a gravi conseguenze: Iniziare Barf su un gatto non sano, senza consultare il Veterinario Pensare che una piccola quota di alimento industriale, compensi la mancanza di alcuni alimenti della dieta barf. Non dare la quota di ossa polpose Non dare organi Cuocere le ossa Dare ossa prive di carne ( ossa spolpate) Cuocere la carne Dare troppo pesce (più di 1 volta a settimana) Non congelare Poca igiene degli strumenti e del frigorifero Non lavarsi le mani dopo aver toccato la carne cruda Scongelare la carne fuori dal frigorifero ( la scongelazione in sacchetto deve avvenire o in acqua tiepida/fredda o in frigorifero ) Dare cacciagione non surgelata almeno 1 mese. TUTORIAL BARF: VAI ALLA PLAYLIST DEL CANALE YOU TUBE VIDEO SULLA DIETA BARF IN PILLOLE: VAI ALLA PLAYLIST DE L CANALE YOU TUBE TUTTI I TESTI SONO DI PROPRIETA' DI KARIN PEDRONA -E' VIETATA L ' INTERA O PARZIALE RIPRODUZIONE DEI TESTI Can't get the cat to BARF? Short on time? _Cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ Worried about making mistakes and preparing unbalanced meals? Don't know how? _Cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ If you want to be followed exclusively, with dedicated sessions, Tutorials, Recipes, Insights, you can write to me or call

  • Test salute gatti norvegesi

    La salute dei Gatti Norvegesi non viene lasciata al caso...Siamo seguiti da Veterinari specializzati... 🧬 GARANZIE SANITARIE COMPLETE 2026 ECOCARDIO+Test Genetici + Virali + Respiratori TUTTI NEGATIVI CERTIFICATI Type IV Glycogenosis GSD IV (glycogen storage disease type IV) is part of a group of diseases, called glycogenoses. Type IV affects the Norwegian Forest Cat. They are well described pathologies also in humans, classified as rare diseases. In a normal organism, the excess glucose obtained from the diet or from the conversion of proteins and fats is stored in a branched chain of polymers, glycogen, built using the enzyme GBE (glycogen branching enzyme) as a catalyst. When the body needs energy, glucose molecules are removed from the glycogen and released into the bloodstream or used by the tissues. The ability to efficiently add and remove glucose from glycogen depends on the complexity of its branching structure. GSD IV is a hereditary deficiency of the GBE enzyme: affected subjects store an abnormal form of glycogen which, therefore, leads to an insufficient use of glucose. Hence GSD IV can be considered a chronic hypoglycemia that inexorably worsens towards death (because the body is unable to use glucose effectively). In cats, affected kittens die a few hours or days after birth, most likely because they do not have enough glucose to survive delivery and the first hours / days of life. The late form is rarer, for which the puppy is healthy up to 5/7 months and then suddenly shows a stunted growth and widespread weakness, with the following symptoms: high hyperthermia (over 40 °), insensitive to corticosteroids intermittent and generalized tremors that become permanent intermittent, "hiccup" weakness muscle weakness, followed by muscle atrophy, fibrotic contractures of joints that lead to movement and feeding difficulties and that require continuous assistance from the owner quadriplegia Affected cats can survive up to 10/14 months. They die of cardiac arrest, sometimes after coma. The disease is fatal and there is no cure. It is possible that it is confused with neonatal isoerythrolysis because the symptoms can suggest both pathologies. The only thing that can be done is the test (genetic for GSD IV, blood group identification with B allele typing for neonatal isoerythrolysis). Genetic profile The GDS IV mutation is recessive, which implies that the possibility of it expressing itself in the offspring exists only if both parents are carriers of the mutation. There are 3 different possibilities: both parents are healthy (they are homozygous for the normal allele): the children are healthy and will not carry the mutation. if one of the parents is carrier (heterozygous) we will have about 50% carrier and 50% healthy cats among their offspring. When two carriers are mated we get 25% sick cats, 50% carriers and 25% healthy cats. Recall that a carrier cat is a cat that does not have the disease and that will never develop it. However, he will be able to to transmit the mutation to his children. The test A genetic test, on blood or buccal swab, is available to identify not only affected cats but also carriers. Some laboratories that perform this test are: Vetogenic Genefast Antagen Genindexe Laboklin PennGen Each laboratory provides for the sending home, upon request, of the test material (swabs or blood collection tubes), together with the necessary documentation. In some cases it is required, for a correct identification of the cat, that the microchip is applied. Insights FYFE et al. (2007) A complex rearrangement in GBE1 causes both perinatal hypoglycaemic collapse and late-juvenile-onset neuromuscular degeneration in glycogen storage disease type IV of Norwegian forest cats, Mol Genet Metab. 90, 4, 383-92. http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/articlerender.fcgi?tool=pubmed&pubmedid=17257876 Glycogenoses on Wikipedia FYFE et al. (1992) Glycogen storage disease type IV: inherited deficiency of branching enzyme activity in cats., Pediatr Res. 32, 6, 719-25.FYFE (1995) Glycogen storage disease in cats, J Am Vet Med Assoc. 206, 3, 286. GASCHEN et al. In Congenital feline myopathies, Glycogen Storage disease type IV, 360-361 http://www.winterfyre.com/testing/ http://gsd4.de.vu/ v Text taken da http: //www.clubnorvegesi.com/

  • Standard estetico della razza | gatti norvegesi

    lo standard del norvegese delle foreste, come si riconosce un gatto norvegese, come viene valutato in esposizione, quali sono le caratteristiche fisiche e caratteriali che lo rendono un gatto speciale e ipoallergenico. Standard of the Norwegian Forest Cat Breed Standard Size : grande Head : Triangular shape, where all sides are equal in length, of good height when viewed in profile, slightly rounded forehead, straight profile without any interruption (no stop) Chin : Forte Eyes : Large and oval in shape, wide open and set slightly oblique. Attentive expression. All colors are permitted regardless of the color of the coat Body structure : Long body, of robust construction and with solid bone structure Legs : Robust, high, with hind legs longer than the front ones. Feet large, rounded and in proportion to the legs Tail: Long and covered with hair, should reach at least the shoulder blades, but preferably reach the neck Coat structure : Semi-long hair. The woolly undercoat is covered with a shiny, water-repellent top coat that is formed of long, thick, shiny hairs that cover the back and flanks. A full coat cat has a ruff, a full mane, and shorts on its hind legs Colors : All colors are allowed, including all varieties with white, point (siamese) type designs and chocolate, lilac, cinnamon and fawn colors are excluded. Any amount of white is allowed, for example: a white jacket, white markings on the back, ribcage or belly, white feet etc. Defects general: Cat too small or thin structure Round or square head, profile with interruption (stop) Small Ears, placed too low, placed too close together Short legs, thin. Score table (Fifé) Total 100 points Head General shape, nose, profile, bite and teeth, chin: 20 points Ears Shape, size and placement: 10 points Eyes Shape and expression: 5 points Body Shape, size, bone structure, legs, foot size: 25 points Tail Length and shape: 10 points Quality and texture coat: 25 points Condition 5 points Score Table (WCF) Total 100 points Type Shape, size, bone structure, legs, foot size: 25 points Head General shape, nose, profile, bite and teeth, chin: 20 points Ears Shape, size and placement: 10 points Eyes Shape and expression: 5 points Tail Length and shape: 10 points Quality and texture coat: 20 points 5-point color and design Condition 5 points Notes: The coat is rated for texture and quality only. In the judgment one should take into account the very maturation slow of this breed. Mature males must have larger heads than females. The length of the hair and the density of the fur vary with the season. Puppies can take more than six months to develop cover coat 1/4

  • Cuccioli di gatti Norvegesi delle foreste

    Cuccioli di gatto norvegese delle foreste in vendita e adulti in adozione. Allevamento amatoriale a Parma con pedigree, test genetici e assistenza post adozione a vita I Gattini Disponibili Clicca sulla foto del gattino per accedere alla galleria Cucciolata 20-09-2026 CLICCA SULLA FOTO Scrivimi su Whatsapp ADULTI IN ADOZIONE Scrivimi su Whatsapp Actea - 4 mesi e mezzo Femmina- Blue Silver + White CLICCA SULLA FOTO Scrivimi su Whatsapp E-MAIL "How They Live and Grow" - DO NOT LIVE IN CAGES or SMALL ROOMS: In addition to being "free" to roam anywhere in my house, my Norwegian cats have at their disposal various outdoor spaces completely fenced and protected, in which they can play, climb, enjoy the sun and the air open, which we know is important for their well-being. Their puppies live in the house with me, until their departure for their new homes, following precise techniques of socialization with other cats and humans . - DO NOT LIVE STRESS FROM OVER POPULATION: In these large spaces, mothers and fathers do not experience stressful situations caused by their state of fertile cat and the presence of "competitors", in this way they can transmit their balanced, sweet character to the puppy _cc781905- 5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_e loving. - I DO NOT USE INDUSTRIAL FEED -I raise the Norwegian cat and its kittens feeding it in a biologically appropriate way, as just like their wild cousins, cats evolved as hunters , jaws and digestive systems are suitable for diets rich in fresh meat. The puppies are used to various types of food so as not to have problems related to single-brand stores. My cats and kittens are followed by a veterinarian nutritionist. - I DO NOT ENTRUST THE PUPPIES BEFORE THE END OF 3 MONTHS -It is my goal to entrust extremely socialized puppies, affectionate and loving, who will not be afraid of relatives and friends who will come to visit you. SUPPORT FOR FAMILIES I like to help by advising families, to prepare for the arrival of the new member, to create an environment that will give him everything he will need, from environmental enrichment, to where to place food and bedding , corners to hide and rest, up to which scratching post to buy. I like to remain a point of reference for families for any future needs and occasionally receive some photos to see my puppies grow. In this regard, I manage two Facebook groups, one that concerns the family management of the cat, how to solve small problems of coexistence, Norwegian Love History and Health _cc781905-5cde- 3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_e one dedicated to its power supply. "Barf only Cats" I DO NOT TRUST THEIR HEALTH TO LUCK: -Our Cats are periodically tested for: HCM- Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy Fiv -Felv - Feline immunodeficiency and leukemia - GSD 4- Glycogenosis type 4 - PKD- Polycystic kidney syndrome Parasitological faeces generic and for Giardia_cc781- 3190-5 136bad5cf58d_ - I DON'T TRUST CATS WITHOUT PEDIGREE A pedigree costs only 13 euros, and is the only tool that gives you the guarantee that the cat is a true descendant of the Norwegian Forest Cat. It guarantees you that the cats have not been exploited to produce hundreds of out-of-control litters. It guarantees you that the mandatory health tests have been carried out. I DO NOT DELIVER CATS AT HOME Anyone who wants my puppy must be willing to get to know me and the whole feline family. A puppy is not a parcel, neither a "gift" nor a "surprise", but a living being that needs respect. The adoption takes place through a contract, with obligations and rights. I DO NOT RELY GATTI TO THIRD PARTIES I don't trust cats a Shops, you will NEVER find one of my kittens for sale in a "showcase" Kittens must grow up in close contact with their mother and siblings and a breeder who looks after them and socializes them from the first moment of life up to at least 3 months. I don't give puppies as gifts to third parties I don't know, or who don't want to come and meet me. DO NOT TRUST PUPPIES FREE TO RIDE Balconies and Windows and Gardens must be secured. Fresh air and sunlight are important for the health and well-being of humans and animals. But allowing a cat to roam freely or to expose itself in the window or on the balcony sill is very risky! So how to do it? I will help you with my experience, in securing your thing as you do when a baby arrives, with little tricks and tricks. "Quality Charter and Free Services for Adopters Pedigree that certifies the belonging to the breed and the commitment of the breeder. Puppy Parents Health Record (test reports carried out; viral, congenital, hereditary diseases.) _ Cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ Kitten Health Certificate. Coprology Test and Giardia Test. Complete vaccine prophylaxis (2 trivalent vaccines) or Antibody Titration and Homeopathic Vaccine. Weaning 100% natural food BARF with meats raised in the open, organic. (no industrial foods such as croquettes and canned goods) Barf Natural Food School. (with handouts, tutorials, videos, shopping list, how to read labels, list of prepackaged foods without cereals and supervision) Supply of fresh food - frozen. Guided path of preparation for the kitten's arrival: shopping list and dedicated discount codes, arrangement of the cat's objects in the house, various documentation including a list of poisonous plants, the approach with children, with another cat ... and much more. Guided tour to make the house, balconies, garden safe. Transfer Agreement, with guarantee and post-adoption assistance Fel D1 allergen tolerance test in a dedicated room.

  • Accompagnamento Empatico | gatti norvegesi

    Accompagnare empaticamente un animale alla fine della sua vita è la stessa cosa che fargli l’eutanasia? EMPATHIC ACCOMPANIMENT Is empathically accompanying an animal at the end of its life the same as euthanizing it? Article written by Dr. Stefano Cattinelli Veterinarian When we talk about empathic accompaniment at the end of our animal's life it means that we have chosen not to euthanize it but to give it the opportunity to spontaneously die alone, when it wants. "Alone and when he wants" means that there will be no pharmacological help or homeopathic remedy that will anticipate his death but that he will choose when to die. I want to underline this passage because too many times I see that empathic accompaniment is confused with a path that inevitably ends with euthanasia. No! Empathic accompaniment does not end with euthanasia. The empathic accompaniment ends when the animal dies a natural death in his home surrounded by the love of those who accompanied him up to that moment. Accompanying does not mean accompanying him to the vet to do the puncture but it means waiting for him to die when he decides. In this article we will not deal with the issue of pain (already discussed in the following article: https://www.stefanocattinelli.it/single-post/2016/11/13/Le-basi-dellaccompagnamento-empatico-il-dolore ) but we will try to go deeper into the theme of the choice to make and what it means for the animal to die "when I decide or when he decides". Here, just "when I decide or when he decides" is the theme of this article. So let's start, without further preambles, taking into consideration the first part of the sentence and that is the one in which it is I who decide when my pet must die. When it is I who choose for him. If you stop for a moment to reflect on the roles that have always characterized the relationship with my animal, you immediately realize that "interpreting" the role of the one who chooses for the animal is an extremely habitual interior position. I'm used to choosing for him. I choose what to feed him; I choose when to feed him. I choose for him the hours in which we go for a walk, I choose the places where I can leave him free and I choose when to put him on the leash, I choose what kind of surgeries to perform them, what kind of therapy, such as pesticides or supplements and what kind of environment I can offer to make him spend his life in the best possible way. At the origin of the relationship there is always an act, an action, towards him that comes from my choice. Most likely, among the many puppies, I chose him and I also chose his name. Or I chose to confirm the name it already had. Or, even if I met him "casually" along my way, it is I who have chosen to welcome him into my life. “Interpreting” the role of the person who chooses is really used to me in relating with him. This, of course, is an absolute good because the role of those who choose necessarily involves the development of ever greater levels of responsibility towards the animal that lives with me: trivially, starting from the questions I ask myself and the answers I find, I will be able to choose. a type of diet that is as appropriate as possible to the animal's biology and this will increase the animal's state of well-being. The sense of responsibility is directly proportional to the well-being of the animal: the more I am responsible for its life, the more my pet will promote its level of well-being. This is a fixed point in the Human-Animal relationship. We must know, however, that in the event of empathic accompaniment we come across a diametrically opposite experience. Why am I speaking of a diametrically opposite experience? Because empathic accompaniment is the path that guides us towards the experience which, by its nature, is the opposite of life and that is death. It is that last piece of road we travel together, the most difficult, the most intense, the most emotionally engaging, the most devastating and at the same time, if done with awareness and presence, the most harbinger of change and transformation. Paradoxically, the experience of his death, if lived to the full in the accompaniment, can truly represent a turning point in the life of each of us. The first transformation, whether small or large, certainly lies precisely in the fact that at this juncture, since we go towards the experience that is opposite to life, I am asked to experience the exact opposite of what I have experienced up to that moment. . If until now it was I who guided the relationship through my choices, in empathic accompaniment it is my animal who guides me through the mystery of his death. This statement is absolutely not intended to be a provocation but rather represents the fruit of my twenty years of scientific-spiritual research in this field, The more I will be able to abandon those parts of me that want to give direction to the event, that want to control it, that want to choose for the animal and the more the animal will have the opportunity to guide me in the most important event of its existence: the end of our love relationship. After twenty years of experience in this field, I can say with certainty that animals know exactly how to die. Through my attitude of acceptance of what is happening to it, step by step, having progressively abandoned the "controller" that is in me and allowing the animal to enter its last period of life in a fluid and progressive way, here I am I will realize that for the animal, death is really something natural; an event that he deeply accepts starting from the feeling that the physical forces are progressively diminishing. The more we give him the time to get in touch with the decrease in physical strength, the vital energy that runs out and the more we create the basis so that he can "enter" more into the naturalness of his death. Yes, because it is his death that we are talking about. I know it may sound absurd a statement like this ... but he only dies once. So who, once again, has the greatest weight in the unfolding of this event? Choosing to accompany an animal at the end of its life means choosing to "enter" a dimension of wisdom and infinite love that knows exactly the exact moment in which this experience must end. To access this different level of experience, my "controller" has no other option than to leave the command post. And then we will discover that in empathic accompaniment it is not I who decide; but it's not even him! Who "decides" is the Consciousness of the relationship between me and him which moves, with infinite Love, the conclusion of our relationship according to the times and modalities that make sense in my biography. Only by fully going through the experience of my pet's death do I offer myself the possibility of accessing new levels of consciousness. And of Love. Thanks to him.

  • I gatti Norvegesi Ticked- il Gatto Lince

    Progetto per la salvaguardia del mantello con pattern / tigratura Ticked nel gatto norvegese delle foreste. E' arrivata la prima cucciolata Italiana di gattini Ticked ! The Norwegian Forest Cats Ticked Project for the preservation of the TICKED Pattern / Tiger in the Norwegian cat ok but what is the "TICKED"? _ cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ The ticked is a very rare type of brindle in the Norwegian cat, now almost extinct. The Ticked is the classic tigratura of wild animals such as lynxes. After many, many years of research to find an heir to this pattern, finally last year DE * Afjord's Kamiko arrived. If you want to read more follow the link on_cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b- 136bad5cf58d_ "Project for the protection of the Pattern Ticked in the Norwegian Forest Cat" If you want to contact us you can write to: infogattinorvegesi@gmail.com ... What Peter Clausson Friis called the lynx-cat was perhaps the "real Norwegian Forest Cat." -5cde-3194-bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ there are many similarities; are both large cats, with high legs, round feet, long mane and tufts of hair on the ears. In the Norwegian villages there were many cats of course, but in the ancient legends there is a particular type that is mentioned very often, the Huldrekat ", ...

  • Ti serve aiuto? | gatti norvegesi

    BARF CAT COACH & ACADEMY: la prima scuola BARF dedicata esclusivamente ai gatti. Corsi + coaching personale. Diventa autonomo nella nutrizione felina consapevole. B.A.R.F COACH & ACADEMY La prima scuola BARF dedicata ESCLUSIVAMENTE ai gatti. "Finalmente autonomo nella nutrizione naturale del tuo felino!" COME È NATO IL BARF CAT COACH & ACADEMY? Nel 2005 ,quando ho iniziato ad allevare i miei primi Gatti Norvegesi delle Foreste, ero convinta di garantire loro il meglio nutrendoli con alimenti commerciali “di qualità”. Col tempo, purtroppo, ho visto emergere problematiche di salute che oggi so essere correlate a un’alimentazione ultra-processata. Queste esperienze , non senza un percorso di sofferenza, mi hanno “segnata” e insegnato che l’alimentazione naturale è fondamentale non solo per prevenire patologie, ma per migliorare il benessere e la qualità di vita quotidiana. Oggi il mio obiettivo è fare in modo che altri gatti e i loro compagni umani non debbano affrontare le mie stesse difficoltà. Per questo ho voluto creare e dedicare questa scuola ai miei amati Cagliostro, Genny , Willy Wonka e Charlie Bucket CHI SONO Sono Karin Pedrona. Ho conseguito Certificato di studi denominato: Tecnico in Dietetica e Nutrizione Veterinaria (con risultato Eccellenza Accademica) Sono un Allevatrice Certificata da Afef e Riconosciuta dal Mipaaf dal 2005 Dal 2010 ho esperienza pratica quotidiana con dieta BARF applicata a tutte le età ed esigenze specifiche . In formazione continua: operatore fito-erboristeria, percorso formativo psicologia uomo-gatto e altri studi di Felinotecnica. La mia formazione è scientifica. La mia esperienza è reale. Il mio approccio è consapevole. COS'È IL BARF COACHING Il BARF Coaching è un percorso strutturato dI durata variabile che ti guida FIANCO A FIANCO, PASSO A PASSO, dedicandoti tutti il TEMPO di cui avrai bisogno, senza fretta, nell’introduzione di una dieta naturale, bilanciata e personalizzata per il tuo gatto. 🎯 Cosa cambia per il tuo gatto? · Digestione fisiologica, con feci meno voluminose e meno odorose · Pelo più lucido e pelle più sana · Maggiore energia e migliore tono muscolare · Supporto al sistema immunitario · Idratazione naturale attraverso il cibo fresco · Riduzione del carico di carboidrati non idonei alla specie · Migliore salute orale, con riduzione della formazione di tartaro 🎯 Obiettivo del percorso Fornirti competenze, strumenti pratici e supporto costante affinché tu possa gestire l’alimentazione del tuo gatto in autonomia, con sicurezza e serenità. **PRIMO CONSULTO GRATUITO** per capire se è il percorso giusto per te e il tuo gatto IL PERCORSO INSIEME: 🐾 FORMAZIONE Cos'è la nutrizione evolutiva I Diversi tipi di dieta naturale BARF Sfatare i Miti sulla dieta barf Osservazione visiva delle feci Il Microbiota e l' apparato digestivo del gatto Neofobia alimentare Alimenti funzionali e non funzionali Integrazioni Naturali Carenza ed eccesso nutrizionale Riconoscere i veri segnali di benessere nel tuo gatto 🐾 PREPARAZIONE E INGREDIENTI Transitare il gatto ai nuovi alimenti (passo dopo passo) Preparare i pasti BARF (più semplice di quanto credi) Alimenti integrativi: quali, quando, perché Scegliere e trovare ingredienti di qualità Dove e come comprare la carne (e il pesce) Macinate ed essiccati Programmazione mensile 🐾 SITUAZIONI PRATICHE BARF in estate, in viaggio, in caso di malessere Tempi di congelamento e sicurezza Strumenti necessari Catena del freddo Come collaborare consapevolmente con il tuo veterinario Igiene e sicurezza alimentare Variare consapevolmente (varietà = salute) Come Usare i Macinati Pronti 🐾 STRUMENTI del PERCORSO Tutorial Colloqui One To One con il BARF Coach Messaggi e Video Video Corso ( in arrivo) Ricette LE DIFFERENZE BARF COACH - Tecnico Nutrizione e dietetica Veterinaria & VETERINARIO NUTRIZIONISTA Due Ruoli Complementari - Ecco le differenze: 🏥 VETERINARIO NUTRIZIONISTA: Diagnosi e trattamento di patologie , attraverso prescrizione di diete di vario tipo e terapeutiche . Cura mediante nutrizione clinica veterinaria 🐱 BARF COACH - (IO): Insegno a mantenere i gatti sani attraverso l' alimentazione - Non diagnostico, non prescrivo farmaci - Sono il tuo alleato tecnico pratico- Educo, supporto, accompagno e motivo la persona lungo il percorso di cambiamento - La mia specializzazione è la dieta BARF QUALE E' IL RUOLO DEL BARF COACH : Supporto alla transizione Insegnare l'applicazione consapevole della nutrizione BARF Consigliare diete naturali per animali in buona salute Educare sulla nutrizione felina e il comportamento Supportare le diete prescritte dal veterinario per gatti con patologie Ottimizzare il gradimento del cibo Ricette Prey model Collaborare con il tuo veterinario di fiducia Spiegare i fondamenti scientifici della nutrizione felina patologica Accompagnarti nel percorso con supporto continuativo giornaliero Supporto Pratico Barf Coach a domicilio E SE IL TUO GATTO HA UNA PATOLOGIA? Se il tuo gatto ha una diagnosi veterinaria e una dieta prescritta , posso: Risolvere problemi di appetito (il gatto non mangia la dieta?) Transizione alla nuova dieta. Spiegare PERCHÉ quella dieta è costruita così (consapevolezza) e aiutarti a mantenere la motivazione nel tempo (cure lunghe sono dure) Collaborare con il tuo veterinario per modifiche più appetibili della dieta Rendere la dieta PRATICABILE nella tua vita quotidiana PER ALLEVAMENTI FELINI: Transizione consapevole della tua popolazione felina a BARF. Formazione allevatore. ═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════ COSA e' L' ACCADEMIA ?! ... Presto sarà attiva l' accademia, con tantissime novità! TORNA A TROVARCI e lo scoprirai presto!! CONTATTI 📧 karin@barfcoach.it 📱 +39 3894984632 https://www.barfcoach.it/

  • Note Legali | gatti norvegesi

    LEGAL NOTICES Legal Notes made by: STUDIOBIA 1. Introduction 1.1 Each user is requested to read these Conditions carefully before using this website. The fact of continuing to use it constitutes complete acceptance of the Conditions by the user. 1.2 The website www.allevamentogattinorvegesi.org.it is the exclusive property of Karin Pedrona 1.3 Data Controller Karin Pedrona tax code: PDRKRN72S46G337Y, resident in via strada per piazza 10, Sivizzano 43045 Fornovo di taro Parma - Italy 1.4 Karin Pedrona may modify these Terms of Use at any time by updating this notice. Users are bound to comply with these changes and are required to periodically consult this page to view the conditions in force at the time of using the website. 2. Copyright and other intellectual property rights Karin Pedrona, fiscal code: PDRKRN72S46G337Y, resident in via strada per piazza 10, Sivizzano 43045 Fornovo di taro Parma - Italy 2.1 Copyrights and any other intellectual property rights on all materials on this website (including texts, photographs, graphic images, video, audio, graphics, logos, symbols, as well as all the software contained therein ) are owned or in the exclusive use of Karin Pedrona. 2.2 It is possible to download, view or print information from this website only and exclusively for personal, non-commercial use. 2.3 Nothing contained on this website may be construed as granting a license or right to use the Trademarks and / or materials on the website. The use or abuse of the Trademarks on the site, or any other content on the site, except as provided for in these Legal Notes, is strictly prohibited. 2.4 The use by users of the materials on this website, except as provided in these Terms of Use or as expressly authorized in writing by the owner, is strictly prohibited. 3. Disclaimer of Liability 3.1 Karin Pedrona makes no guarantees, nor assumes any responsibility for the correctness and completeness of the information published on the site. To the extent permitted by law, it disclaims any liability or obligation of any nature arising from or in any way connected with the use of this website or its content. In particular, Karin Pedrona will not be responsible for the accuracy, completeness, adequacy, updating or completeness of the information contained in this website. 3.2 Karin Pedrona assumes no responsibility or any obligation for damage or viruses that may infect users' computers or other devices due to their access, use or navigation within this website or due to having downloaded from same materials, data, text, images, video or audio files. 3.3 Karin Pedrona reserves the right to interrupt or suspend one or all of the functions of the website www.allevamentogattinorvegesi.org Karin Pedrona declines any responsibility or obligation of any kind for any interruption or suspension of one or all of the website's functions. 4. Access to the service 4.1 While undertaking to guarantee the regular availability of the website 24 hours a day, Karin Pedrona will not be held responsible if, for any reason, the website is not available at a certain time or for a certain period. 4.2 Access to this website may be temporarily suspended without notice in the event of system failure, maintenance or repair or for reasons beyond Karin Pedrona's control. 5. Links to and from other Internet sites 5.1 does not exercise any control over the sites to which this Internet site is linked and does not provide any guarantee on the contents contained therein and, moreover, has not subjected any of these sites to verification, therefore users acknowledge that Karin Pedrona_cc781905-5cde-3194 -bb3b-136bad5cf58d_ is not responsible for what is contained in the pages external to this Internet site or in any other site connected to it. 5.2. The user is allowed to create a link to this website under the following conditions: - that the link is made only to the home page, even without reproducing it; - that there is the written consent of Karin Pedrona 6. Applicable law and competent court This legal notice is governed by Italian law and must be interpreted in accordance with the same. For disputes arising from this legal notice or related to it, the Italian courts will have exclusive jurisdiction.

  • Dove Siamo | Disir Nornir – Allevamento Gatto Norvegese a Parma (Emilia-Romagna)

    Siamo a Fornovo di Taro - Parma, potete visitarci su appuntamento. Gatti Norvegesi in Italia , mappa regione per regione. Scopri le storie dei nostri gatti in tutta Italia: link alle storie , foto e ricordi. CONTATTI DOVE SIAMO : siamo parte della "Riserva del Monte Prinzera" , nell Appennino Tosco Emiliano, tra le incantevoli vallate circostanti, in un’antica borgata a 368m sul livello del mare, a Sivizzano in provincia di Parma (Emilia-Romagna) → Scopri i nostri gatti Norvegesi in tutta Italia: Gatti Norvegesi in Italia CONTATTI : chiama per l indirizzo completo; il nostro allevamento non è un esercizio commerciale, per visitarci è necessario prenotare un appuntamento. Karin Pedrona Mobile: 389 498 4632 email: infogattinorvegesi@gmail.com

  • Arriva il cucciolo | gatti norvegesi

    Il cucciolo sta per arrivare nella nuova casa, come prepararsi? quali sentimenti prova il gattino? come approcciarsi con lui? come farlo incontrare ai bambini? WHEN A KITTEN ARRIVES IN THE FAMILY: How do you understand what the puppy is feeling right now? How do you know if everything is fine e which sensazioni test? Will you be happy to be with us? Will he be able to settle in our home? Surely, soon, the little frightened kitten will become master absolute of your home and it will seem to you that he is always lived with you, but this over time. Now the little one needs to acquire security and only you, with your calm and your pazienza you can infuse it. It is obvious that for you who have brought it to your home with so much love that wad of fur is a source of pleasant emotions and great happiness. The children of the house, if you have any, will be very excited and impatient to be able to cuddle the kitten and it will not be easy to reign calm, which at this moment is, however, absolutely essential. A day like any other can truly become a special day if that day, in your home, a kitten arrives, _cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136_bad5cfina we do not know and who does not know us. This premise summarizes our emotions, but he, the protagonist, the object of so much attention, what is he feeling at this moment? Let's imagine for a moment that we are in his shoes to try to understand him and make this passage as sweet as possible. We keep in mind that he with his mother and his siblings was fine and had no intention of changing residence. He is afraid, he finds himself alone with people he does not know, the environment in which he was born and lived is no longer there, there is no longer even the reassuring presence of a mother cat under whose belly you could run to take refuge in case of danger and then fall asleep happily to the echo of its purr. Those were good times! But what is happening now? He was put in a pet carrier and then, probably, in a car, sounds and noises frighten him and after the journey he will enter a house that is also unknown. he will hide, if he refuses food and does not use the litter box, all this is normal and, unfortunately, inevitable in the acclimatization phase, but we can really make a difference, our attitude, respect and sweetness that we will be able to use towards this creature, not only will it help him to overcome this difficult moment, but it will guarantee us a happy coexistence with a serene and balanced cat.The cat is, in fact, a very sensitive animal and its psyche, especially during childhood , is very prone to suffering trauma which can become very difficult to remove in the future.The password when the puppy arrives home is: CALM. The quieter the environment and the minimized noises, the easier it will be for the kitten to enter. As soon as you enter the house, place the pet carrier on the ground, in a secluded place, open the door slowly and observe from a safe distance (escape distance 2-3 meters). Remember that he does not know you and that, therefore, in his eyes, you represent a danger. His concern at this moment is safety and his atavistic instinct constantly sends him danger signals. The reaction, however, is not always immediate and not always the same, a lot also depends on the character of our kitten. There are puppies that need two or more days to relax, while others, more self-confident, already eat and play quietly the same evening. In most cases, however, the kitten remains motionless for several minutes curled up in the bottom of the carrier. Once it is ascertained that everything around him remains quiet, slowly, slowly he gets up and gestures timid steps towards the outside, his belly almost touches the ground and the gait is plush, all his senses are at maximum tension and any noise. even if weak, it makes him jump. With caution he looks out at the exit, towards the outside world and his nose, at the maximum of activity he tries to catch some familiar smell. The whiskers constantly move like radars in all directions and his eyes look for a safe place to hide. Let him do it, give him time to metabolize it all. Do not be tempted to go to meet him, this would be a very wrong move on your part, remember the "escape distance" and respect it. Probably he, after an initial moment of bewilderment, will run to hide in the place that will seem safest to him, under a sofa or under a bed and he will want to stay there until he feels more serene. It must be borne in mind that nature has wanted him this way, distrustful of everything that is unknown and that he must necessarily obey what his instinct imposes on him. Indulge him, always remember that the cat has no owners, the more you try to force him, the more he will rebel against you. He accepts you as you are, but he expects the same from you. You have to think that nature has given him all the weapons to look after himself without anyone's help, so he doesn't even remotely think he needs you. Unlike the dog that needs to belong to a pack in order to live, the cat is an individualist par excellence. His affection is never as obvious as that of the dog, obtaining it is an achievement that once achieved will be the greatest reward for our efforts. So be indifferent, surely in a short time you will see him reappear, always stealthy, but certainly less frightened. The stomach that sooner or later will claim and the innate curiosity of the cat will do the rest, especially if under his little face, the master, will make a ribbon move slowly and slowly and when he approaches, slowly, a friendly hand will gently caress him. It may be that in the face of so much confidence he will try to take refuge again in his hiding place. Nothing wrong with that, from his point of view, prudence is never too much, but if he won't do it and will allow you to keep touching him, know that the best is done at this point. Calmly try to pick him up by lifting him from under the belly and bring him close to the chest. He will sneak under your clothes, feel the heat of your body and your heart beating, just like that of the mother cat and this situation will remind him of when he slept curled up with his siblings. Caress him with confidence, your hand reminds him of the maternal licks, if when you touch his neck you exert a slight squeeze behind the ears you will give him a little thrill of pleasure, in fact, when the cat has to move her kittens, she grabs them with her mouth behind the neck and lifts them. This gesture of love causes the puppy to abandon itself completely. When you feel relaxed, a scratch under the chin will almost certainly trigger the start of a purr concert and a languid gaze will meet your gaze. Now the road is open, the relationship of trust begins to be established, from here to eternal love the step will be short, just abandon yourself in the wonderful eyes of your cat. Good life my puppies !! Karin - Disir Nornir Kennel Written by: Brunetti and Stroscio Veterinary Clinic

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© 2021  Disir Nornir by Karin Pedrona

Ethical and Amateur Breeding 

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© 2021  Disir Nornir by Karin Pedrona

Ethical and Amateur Breeding 

​ Privacy Cookie Policy    Legal notes by_cc781905 bb3b- 136bad5cf58d_

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All texts and photographs are the property of Karin Pedrona, partial or entire reproduction of texts and photographs is prohibited . 

Attention! Scams and image theft have been reported a miei damages by people posing as collaborators and using my images without authorization.

 l 'cattery  Disir Nornir, has no collaborators and does not entrust his puppies to shops. Always check by visiting the farm in person or by researching

on the  ANFI website , the existence of the farm.

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